Markets and Media in 21st Century China

The class had the pleasure of having foreign correspondents from the Miami Herald, NPR, and the Chronicle of Higher Education. It was unique, and not just because I used one of their articles in my original research paper. Their visit gave us an opportunity to talk to people who have the opportunity to research and travel within China more than any other Westerner. Even business majors were intrigued by the stories that they tell. They told stories of evading authorities, working within the confines of an authoritarian government, and of choosing the best story to write, because they're so many to choose from. I enjoyed their talk, because they were an expert on any subject we inquired about -- organic food, the property market, rural revolts -- they knew everything.

At the same time, we've noticed that just about every foreigner who's lived in the country for a long time echoes the Chinese government's position on human rights, economic development, etc. Perhaps there's something to that -- I've noticed some of it myself. Perhaps there's some wisdom to building the Three Gorges, perhaps the government is wise for emphasizing a "harmonious society" over a democratic one, perhaps China is working to curb pollution. Or, we could just be internalizing state propaganda in our daily papers, daily newscasts, and from anyone we talk to. Perhaps this is why foreign correspondents are required to move every three years -- it's easy to adopt the view of the billion people who live in the country in which you work.

I've enjoyed my time in China and have learned much about the country. It will be even more interesting to reflect on the trip when the Beijing 2008 Olympics and 2010 Shanghai World Expo take place. Will we adopt the view of protectionists and pro-democracy advocates when we're back in the States? Or will we stay committed to the China Daily editorial line? Talk to me in 3 years.

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Bargaining. That is one of the things that I will miss the most about China. It is exhausting, yet very invigorating to bargain someone down to 2 American dollars for a t-shirt. Yesterday was our big day to show off our bargaining skills. The bus dropped us off yesterday afternoon at the Pearl and Silk Market which is conveniently located a few blocks away from our hotel. This place is ridiculously overwhelming. There is floor after floor of anything you can possibly imagine. Pearls. Silk. Chopsticks. Paintings. North Face. Polo. Suitcases. Purses. Jewelry. You name it and you can probably find it there. I set out for the essentials...pearls and silk. Amanda and I finally found the pearl section. Amazing. We finally found a booth that we were pleased with. We ended up buying ten strands of pearl necklaces with matching dangle earrings and we paid a GREAT price for them. It turned out to be about $6 a set. And the best part was that Rose, the shop owner, made them while I waited. Yes, it did take up a half hour of my time, but she was great to talk to. I met all of her friends in the surrounding booths that were very envious of our large purchase from her and then I ended up meeting her boyfriend of 5 years. After the half hour I would say that we are friends...quite close friends. Since I was such great company, she gave me two free pairs of studded pearl earrings and her email address so that we can keep in touch. So in the end I not only got a TON of pearls, but I made a very nice friend. All in all it was a TERRIFIC afternoon of bargaining and friend making.

I truly will miss this place. I can't believe we leave to go back to the States this time tomorrow. Five whole weeks have passed in what seems like only a few days. We have travelled so much and met so many great people that it will be very tough to leave behind. For me, this won't be my last time in China.

Till then,
Melissa Ginder

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On the bus ride to the Great Wall I wound up sharing a seat with a girl from the Beijing Sports University. She and I immediately hit it off when she complimented my ugly Hawaiian hat which the members of my group continue to prove unable to appreciate. She and I hiked most of the wall together, her English was great, and we were able to share a lot about our respective families and home lives etcetera. But the best was to come during the camping trip.

After we got to our camp site on the wall and set up our sleeping bags for the night, she and I found a place on the ledge and sat talking with our legs dangling over the side of the wall. Somewhere during our discussion our talk turned to, of all things, politics. It had probably been too long since I'd been able to go off on a nice, prolonged tangent in this regard, so I ended up expressing all of my frustrations with our country's current set of leaders. I accused both Republicans and Democrats alike of rampant corruption, complained about our lack of concern for the impoverished (which, despite my best efforts, I'm pretty sure she still does not believe exists in America), and listed a brief set of my other primary sources of anger. She was surprised a little, and was confused as to why we didn't just get rid of the current leaders and bring in a new set of upright ones. She was familiar with both the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution (which I was suprised to find are taught in Chinese schools) and said that she thinks the foundations of our government are right, even if the actual practice has become corrupted.

Anyway, somewhere along the way, almost out of nowhere, she turned to me and asked me if I--an expert in freedom in her mind--thought China's people would ever be "free." I assume what she meant was essentially whether it would become democratic. This was like a slap in the face for me. Travelling here I find the cities to be so similar to the United States that I often forget that these people live under such a radically different government. But here was this girl telling me that she didn't consider herself free and that she wanted to be. I think growing up in America we're simply so used to the idea of freedom that it's difficult to imagine life in any other way.

Sometime during this conversation I suggested that maybe both of our countries needed a revolution. Her reaction could not have been more vehemently opposed to such an action. She went off on a tirade extolling the hardship and suffering associated with revolutions--citing the French and Cultural Revolutions to support her arguments. She even used one of my personal favorite sayings: "The road to Hell is paved with good intentions." This girl adamantly believed that change should come slowly with time, and that rapid revolution was always negative.

I felt both of these reactions provided a telling glimpse into the psychology of the Chinese of my generation. Make of it what you will.

-Alex Weber

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As we prepare to leave China on Wednesday we can't help but be a bit nostalgic about our five weeks here. After all, This Is China. Here are a few of my favorite moments from each city we visited during our journey:

Shanghai: To commemorate our last night in Shanghai, our group ventured to a club called Bon Bon. At first a bit apprehensive to follow Taylor's directions once again, we wound up at a great spot with a million-mile tall doorman. We all enjoyed a fun night with an enthusiastic DJ and vivacious atmosphere. The most memorable moments of the night included a crazy bathroom where the water in the faucet came from the ceiling, a dance contest featuring Caroline and Cami, a VIP table complete with addictive dice games and music from America. It was a night when all of us were together and justly represents the fun of Shanghai.

Henglu: Henglu was all about the people. The village was such a culture shock and the best part for all of us I think was getting to interact with all of the kids that lived there. My favorite part of the weekend was Saturday night: dumplings and the talent show. Competing with 10 other people for a bowl of dumplings, chopstick against vicious chopstick in the bowl, was both hillarious and exhausting, and ultimately very satisfying. The talent show, where Caroline, Cami and I performed My Girl, was really fun and the juxtaposition of American culture, like the theme song from Fresh Prince of Bel-Air, and Chinese culture was depictive of the cultural differences in a fun way.

Hangzhou: After hearing about it from everyone we talked to, we finally got to see West Lake. It was absolutely beautiful, with lush gardens and beautiful architecture. Matt, Cami, Caroline and I enjoyed overpriced tea and delicious noodles and fried rice (two helpings) overlooking the lake. While we never found the peony garden we had been searching for, we encountered several photo shoots and even some peacocks.

Wuhan: Wuhan was a fun city with great shopping. A personal highlight was the tshirt I bought that reads Big Mac and then Attack underneath it five times in different colors. As a group, we all really enjoyed the Wuhan Institute of Physical Education. Getting to see the gymnasts train was an awe-inspiring sight. Also, talking with the students was exciting because they were all so enthusiastic about talking with American students. It was yet another opportunity to exchange emails and further the America-China network we've seen growing since we've been here.

The Splendid China: The cruise was fantastic. Actually going through the Three Gorges Dam was something I'll always remember. I think my favorite part of the cruise was the talent show. Our dance to the Jock Jams Mega Mix was so much fun to prepare and even more fun to perform. While part of me didn't want to satisfy the boat director Linda by entering the talent show, it was definitely worth it for our great costumes and creative dance moves. Yet, I'm still a little bitter that they started our music too softly at first and we had to skip a couple of the best moves, but Bryce still had his solo at the end which was a vital part of the routine. Also, as posted earlier, gua sha was awesome.

Beijing: I slept on the only man-made structure visible from space. Camping on the Great Wall of China is quite possibly the highlight of our entire China trip. We actually got to see stars in China and instead of being woken up early by Linda's voice, we were woken up early by the sun. Using my cell phone on the Great Wall of China was also an interesting mix of old and new aspects of China's culture. One thing I don't love about the Great Wall is that there's nowhere to go to the bathroom and drinking water requires the decision between being thirsty, having to hike down to use the bathroom, or having to hold it all night. Being slightly uncomfortable was definitely worth sleeping there, and it was somewhat alleviated by delicious Oreos, which from now on will always make me think of Cami. Also in Beijing I bought a sword, and I'm really excited about that.

Coming home soon and back here eventually!
Katie Simpson

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We were without an Internet connection Henglu, thus our brief hiatus from blog posts. But an Internet connection wasn't the only plug we were lacking.

Our host families in Henglu had splendid multi-story houses, built within about the last two years. Signs of fresh construction lingered all around the house: stickers left on fixtures and windows that have yet to receive screens.

However, one small detail continues to bother me: each bedroom had exactly one electrical outlet. Not a pair -- just one. I'm not trying to gripe that I couldn't plug in all my gadgets. Rather, I'm astounded that a household in the 21st century can live comfortably with just one outlet per room. (Yes, cheap power strips are everywhere in China, but are not the safest option, especially once you start daisy-chaining many together.)

Assuming that one outlet suits them fine, I wonder how long that will last? Even in the family's living room, we saw a medium sized TV, a DVD player, and a karaoke machine, all of which can be power gluttons in their own right.

Typical building codes in America for new constructions require outlets once every six feet. China apparently doesn't have a parallel code, or at least one as stringent.

Why did the builders not plan for growing power use? Perhaps I am letting my Western materialism show its ugliest here, but I can only imagine a world that will include more and more power hungry devices as the years progress, even in remote Henglu. If China is the next big market for consumer goods, where will they plug them in?

Alex Kraus

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Professor Zhou Shi Zhe (ECNU) gave us a tutorial on traditional Chinese brush painting.

After that, we gave our hands a try at our own painting. Unlike the traditional teaching method in Asia -- copying a master's model -- Prof. Zhou encouraged us to paint anything we liked.

Andrew Hemm (W&L alum) shared some of his experiences doing risk management for Chinese banks.

Just outside of People's Park, you'll find the ultra-modern multi-story Shanghai Urban Planning Museum, where the city ostentatiously shows off its growth on one floor with a basketball court-sized scale model of the city.

I'm pretty sure this sign, found at the Yangshan Deepwater Port, means to say something like "Check out the view at the top of the terrace."

This is the scene from the balcony of our dorms at ECNU.

Alisha Laventure recorded the explanation of the TV studio at the Shanghai Securities News.

The TV studio at the Shanghai Securities News before adding W&L students...

...and after.

Cheng Pei Song of the Shanghai Securities News showed us the layout of today's paper.

This was just course one of a literal feast with the staff of the Shanghai Securities News.

We had only 15 minutes to look around the Shanghai Stock Exchange, which hit an all-time high today of 4,013.09 points.

Ryan MacPhee and Caroline Davis had a lively discussion at the Stock Exchange.

Posted by Alex Kraus

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Our class gathered in the lobby of the international dorm to head out to our first "Survival Chinese" lesson.

Our instructor, Alice, gave us all our own Chinese names.

Charles McElwee '78 told us about his experience with environmental law in China.

We finally (sort of) figured out the confusing ticket system in the cafeteria, thus narrowly avoiding starvation for another day.

The ladies posed outside the Yun Feng Theatre, where we awaited a Chinese acrobatics performance.

Jess was very excited for the performance.

Our professors posed in front of the "Charming Shanghai" wall mural.

The men in the "Climbing Pole" performance lept through the air from pole to pole. It was spectacular and a bit gut-wrenching.

A woman carrying spinning plates walked on her companions' heads while trying not to touch the other plates.

The woman in the "Air Ballet" scene wowed us with her flexibility and endurance.

Manmeet Singh (alum) gave us a very frank opinion on the economic environment in Shanghai.

Nanjing Road on a national holiday is insanely crowded -- who would have guessed?

"Purse, watch? Purse, watch?" -- Street vendors solicit foreigners with photos of knock-off merchandise. If you like what you see, you can follow them to a back room filled with pirated goods.

Taylor bought a Shanghai Daily, the only English-language publication available at this newsstand.

Hi Thomas.

Posted by Alex Kraus

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