The Best of Chinglish Photo Series
Classmates, you are welcome to add your own photos to this one. (A "Thanksgiving Poodle" shot is in order since I didn't have my camera with me for that one.)
And one of my favorites...
-Alex Kraus
« April 2007 | Main | June 2007 »
May 31, 2007
May 30, 2007
Reflections
It is my last day in China and I’m ready to go home. This has been the greatest experience of my life.
I walked into this trip dreading the idea that I would be surrounded by a culture that I have been avoiding for my entire college career. It made me a bit apprehensive about actually going on the trip. No, I’m not talking about China; I’m talking about Washington & Lee’s social culture.
After this trip, I feel I can graduate with no regrets. I am happy that I came to China with this group of people. Being in a foreign country has forced me to interact socially with W&L students that I had never met before and had never even bothered to notice. Although I am elated to leave China and go home, I am sad to leave my newfound friends. Like Ryan said in a previous blog entry, we have become a very tight knit family.
The people on this trip have made my last days as a student the most memorable days of my life and I am thankful for each one of them. I will cherish the memories of each person on this trip for years to come.
Even if I can’t remember all the names of the places we visited here, I will never forget the 19 people that made this trip the climax of my college career. If I had not come to China, how would I have ever known Caroline’s free spirit, Momma Katie’s helpful hints, Danner’s inner child, Ryan’s hair toss, Bryce’s chatty side (only in certain situations), Amanda’s connection to a family friend, Alex Kraus’s paparazzi-like photo skills, Alex Webber’s famous line “Hey baby,” Taylor’s love of basketball, Jess’s sincere concern for anyone that she meets, Maggie’s love for Australia, Kristin’s sarcasm, Melissa’s love for mothering, Sarah’s beautiful voice, Thomas’s awesome dance moves, Professor Luecke and Alisha’s love for personal guided nature walks, and Professor Pirkle’s adoration for our favorite tour guide Philip. And to my favorite roomie ever, Christina Dixon, I love the feisty personality that is hidden by your innocence.
I am going home to graduate with no regrets. And thanks to the China ’07 group, I will leave campus with nineteen new friends!
With Love,
Cami Morrison
Minister of Hotness for T.I.C. (This Is China)
Washington & Lee University ‘07
Organized Crime
In our five weeks in China, we have seen the most beggars in Beijing. It seems as if they are flocking to touristy areas. In Tiananmen Square, they all seemed to be children or teenagers. But they looked very different from all the beggars I have seen in other parts of China.
Imagine seeing a child that is deformed. Not just any deformity, but one you have never seen before. He has all of his extremities and they are proportional to his body, but his legs don’t have any bones. His arms work just fine and help him to push himself around on a scooter. You watch him bend his legs into contortions to serve as arm rests or just as play toys while he begs for money. There is another scooter. This time, it looks like a teenage boy. He is using his hands to get around. You notice that his legs are mangled too. They have bones but they have grown together as if they were stuffed into something.
I asked our guide, Pen Pen, why I was seeing so many children with these types of deformities begging in the same place. She told me a very sad story. Begging is part of organized crime in China. People kidnap babies and young children in order to put them to work as their beggars. These children are sometimes stuffed into vats in order to make them grow with birth defects so that they can collect more money.
-Cami Morrison
May 29, 2007
Snapshots of China: Great Wall and Forbidden City
I've posted a handful of pictures on the blog from our most recent experiences in China, including the Great Wall hike/sleepover and the Forbidden City. Enjoy!
Caroline Davis
Great Wall Group 3!
Awesome scenic view on the Great Wall
Great Wall again
Looking down on the Wall from one of the numerous treacherous staircases we climbed.
Katie and I posing on the hike up to the Wall
Bryce and I before our hardcore hike on the Great Wall!
We saw this sign before we camped out on the Great Wall that night. Oops haha.
Getting a glimpse of the sun coming up after our sleepover on the wall
Random picture but I saw this little baby in the Forbidden City and couldn't resist snapping the shot.
The Forbidden City definitely has a Starbucks inside its gates. Here are a bunch of us enjoying our frappachinos!
Danner, Bryce, Katie and I in Tiananmen Square together.
Hot Water
Hot water, almost too hot, has been abundant in China. All hot things, for that matter, have been accessible. Very cold drinks are hard to come by. This is opposite of what I am used to. Americans like a very cold drink on a hot day. Chinese, however, like warm things. Many believe that cold drinks are bad for you. Instead, on a hot day, some hot tea would make you sweat even more releasing toxins and any evil spirits. This probably corresponds to how hot the Chinese can get their water.
In Henglu, the water given to us to drink and for brushing our teeth was too hot to use for the first hour. It was placed in a very well insulated bottle that kept the water hot for hours. If you used it to brush your teeth straight from the bottle, you would burn yourself. We would let it sit in the insulated bottle until the morning and the water would still be warm! I don't know how they got the water so hot.
The shower water also displays this characteristic. In the States, I turn the nozzle for the shower water almost to the hottest temperature. In China, I can't even turn it halfway. It is on the cold side and the water is hot. A couple times I would get out of the shower and turn the water fully to hot. It would steam immediately and form a sauna in the bathroom. I never realized the reason why or how the water was able to get that hot.
-Bryce Foster
Hair is Rare
One of the last days in Beijing we were taken to one of the famous shopping places. Because Caroline and I had no money and were actually in debt, we had to hit up the Bank of China to get some yuan. This took about 45 minutes and then we were off.
Most of the vendors are aggressive, to say the least. They have no problem grabbing your arm and pulling you into the store. The first thing I looked at was a shirt. Of course, the girl started her price ridiculously high and I claimed that I would only pay for a very small price. Then the bargaining began. Her price was still too high for what I was willing to buy. Therefore, I told her I didn't want it and walked away. This was when she started accusing me of being ugly and stupid. She also said Caroline was too good for me and should be with someone more handsome. I replied back that she wasn't a good salesperson.
One of the more memorable shopping experiences happened when I was looking at a coat. About four girls worked at this place. I had tried it on and decided on a price. I pulled out 100 yuan from my pocket and paid. One girl, seeing where my money came from, decided to try to go into my pocket to go after more money. I grabbed her arms and we started to sort of wrestle. She wouldn't stop so I decided to pick her up from her legs. I lifted her about six inches off the ground until I knew that I had scared her. I put her down and she proceeded to sit on the ground, happy to be grounded. Need I say she didn't try to go after my money again.
Hair is rare in China. My arms have been rubbed at least six times in China, by people in awe of how hairy my arms are. Yesterday, my beard was rubbed by one of the vendors. (So was Caroline's.) We tried to rub the vendor's face back, but she wouldn't let us. One time, one of the men who rode me around in a cart, wanted to compare arms, legs, and chest. It was very entertaining for both of us.
-Bryce Foster
"Waiter, there's a bug in my flight"
When we were served lunch on the domestic flight from Chongqing to Beijing, I didn't realize my rice was dining for two.
On the initial flight from Chicago to Shanghai, the American man next to me warned me about domestic flights. Landings, he said, were a bit like skipping a rock across a pond. Great, I thought. So I was prepared for a bumpy ride, but not much else.
It was early afternoon, and our domestic flight company Sichuan Airlines (which we nervously joked that we never heard of before) served us lunch. Luckily, our faithful guide Pen-Pen made sure that we had lunch earlier. (At a "registered tourist site," no less. That's become a bit of a running joke among our group since then.)
In retrospect, I'm glad I had some good food before the flight. The airline lunch consisted of pork and rice heated in an aluminum tray, plus a bento-like box of breads, fruits, and some other unidentifiable pouches.
I rarely turn down free food, so I went ahead and pecked at the rice. It wasn't particularly good. As I got down to the last few mounds of rice, I noticed a little black "special extra" in the rounded corner of the dish. I ignored it at first, thinking it was some kind of seasoning. It's not unusual for us to get all kinds of inedible seasonings stuck into broths and noodles.
But the second time I noticed the long black oval was not a seasoning, but rather a long-dead roach, I let out a long string of "Oh my God"s that killed whatever conversation Alex Weber and I were having at the time. Alex inspected it also. It made him laugh. It made me a little green.
If this had been the United States, I would have made such a stink with the flight attendants that I would have free flights for a lifetime. But... "This is China," as we like to say as our all-encompassing, legitimizing, grin-and-bear-it motto, and so I put the lid back on what was left of my rice and roach and tried my best to enjoy the rest of the flight.
Wishing he could forget,
Alex Kraus
Good-bye Blog and Good-bye China
Good-bye blog. We've had a good run at it. Our relationship probably wasn't as good as it could have been seing that this is only my eighth posting, exactly the number we are required for class. Maybe blogging just isn't my thing, but you did help me get out my most interesting moments in China to the entire world. So all those always anxiously awaiting to hear my gripping Chinese tales, this is the end and I bid you farewell for tomorrow I head off into the Chinese sunset. Or maybe it's the sunrise, I still don't really understand that whole time difference thing. I've come so far since first setting foot in the great city of Shanghai where it took me a good half an hour or so to cross the busy streets and where I paid more than double what I should have for a fake Polo. I'll miss the wonderful countryside of Henglu where I met my other Chinese half in a young girl named Jenny, who might be the kindest soul I've ever met. I honestly can't say much about Hangzhou and Wuhan because honestly I really just didn't like those cities. Sorry to all you Hangzhouinians and Wuhanites -- it's nothing personal, your cities just aren't that much fun. Beijing, however, has been phenominal to me and I hope to return. I am finally able to cross the road at my leisure like a pure blood Chinese, my haggling skills have improved significantly and I've even made some close friends in this crazy adventure that has been China. I definitely will miss this exotic country, but I certainly will not miss this blog nearly as much. Perhaps I will return some day and if you are lucky maybe I will blog about it, but don't get your hopes up. So signing off from China....
Your Favorite Blogger,
Matt Danner
As Alanis Would Say, Isn't It Ironic?
I have finally gathered enough strength to write this blog after being on my deathbed for the last two days. Oh no, it wasn’t the Chinese food that had me heading for the bathroom, it was Outback Steakhouse. You’ve been warned. Of course it would be the only American food I’ve had in weeks that would make me restrict my diet to water and white rice for the past few days.
For the past five weeks we have eaten everything from the stomach lining of a pig to little fish bodies. I’ve even picked at chicken brain. I’ve eaten strawberries from a vender off the street of Shanghai, rinsed with a little bottled water, and lived to walk another day. And I know most of us have become big fans of the sea cucumber (sarcasm). Since Pen-Pen has joined us we haven’t had to question the quality of the meals placed in front of us, so I’ve been willing to experiment with whatever has been set within reach of my chopsticks (even though my chopstick skills seem to still be relatively shaky). Lesson learned: should have had Pen-Pen sitting next to me at dinner at Outback because maybe she would have instructed me to go a step beyond medium-done steak.
This trip hasn’t just opened up to me a new world of experimenting with new foods but also to the Chinese culture focused on concepts such as saving face, competitive entrepreneurialism, and of course the art of bargaining; however, exposure to those last three haven’t left me sick to my stomach.
Prof. Luecke has nursed me back to health,
Sarah McCarville
Zai jian China
As our final day in China comes to a close, I cannot help but be so unbelievably SAD. Although I cannot wait to breathe fresh air and see all those left behind in the States, I am not yet ready to leave China. This experience has been an unforgettable one from the cruise down the Yangtze to the 9-mile hike on the Great Wall. I'll really miss the crazy bikers, yummy food (well, if Pen-Pen orders), Chinglish, designer everything (believe it or not, there is a whole floor in the Silk Market dedicated to Dolce and Gabbana undies...weird, huh?), and everything else Caroline mentioned. I'll also really miss bargaining for a 5 Yuan reduction in my silk robe, only to walk away 2 minutes later and realize I just bargained over a measly 70 cents. Hey, that’s China for you.
It cannot wait to get back to W&L and the speaking tradition, and not have to worry about “hello” being misunderstood for, “hello, please tell me your life story.” One must be careful in China of saying “Neeee haooo” to a stranger. If that stranger knows English, beware, they will follow you and ask you endless questions in an attempt to strengthen their English. Oh China, how I love thee!
These 5 weeks have been an experience that will be difficult to match. How often do you get to travel for an extended period of time to a country half way across the world, while studying what you love? I’d say not very often. I am so glad this opportunity presented itself, and will always hold a special place in my heart for China and the members of this trip.
Going to miss the Ni Hao's,
Kristen Krouchick
Foreign Correspondents
The class had the pleasure of having foreign correspondents from the Miami Herald, NPR, and the Chronicle of Higher Education. It was unique, and not just because I used one of their articles in my original research paper. Their visit gave us an opportunity to talk to people who have the opportunity to research and travel within China more than any other Westerner. Even business majors were intrigued by the stories that they tell. They told stories of evading authorities, working within the confines of an authoritarian government, and of choosing the best story to write, because they're so many to choose from. I enjoyed their talk, because they were an expert on any subject we inquired about -- organic food, the property market, rural revolts -- they knew everything.
At the same time, we've noticed that just about every foreigner who's lived in the country for a long time echoes the Chinese government's position on human rights, economic development, etc. Perhaps there's something to that -- I've noticed some of it myself. Perhaps there's some wisdom to building the Three Gorges, perhaps the government is wise for emphasizing a "harmonious society" over a democratic one, perhaps China is working to curb pollution. Or, we could just be internalizing state propaganda in our daily papers, daily newscasts, and from anyone we talk to. Perhaps this is why foreign correspondents are required to move every three years -- it's easy to adopt the view of the billion people who live in the country in which you work.
I've enjoyed my time in China and have learned much about the country. It will be even more interesting to reflect on the trip when the Beijing 2008 Olympics and 2010 Shanghai World Expo take place. Will we adopt the view of protectionists and pro-democracy advocates when we're back in the States? Or will we stay committed to the China Daily editorial line? Talk to me in 3 years.
In The Blink Of An Eye
China is changing literally before our eyes.
Since we have arrived in Beijing, entire streets have been ripped away, an entire pedestrian street has been refurbished, and an entire building has disappeared within six days. Workers work around the clock to finish the job.
The first night in Beijing, Christina and I ventured down to the Pedestrian Walkway for a snack on one of the side streets. There were about four men on the corner cutting away the sidewalk. They were using jackhammers. The sound was annoying and there was a little dust flying in the air. That sight would change by the next morning.
On the way to the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square our group walked pass the exact corner that we were on the night before. The entire sidewalk on the corner had been ripped up and the workforce had doubled. This larger group of men worked with jackhammers, regular hammers, and metal wedges to tear up the street adjacent to the corner. The sound of jackhammers and metal clinging together was combined with the sound of honking horns, bicycle bells, and morning traffic. Dust and car exhaust mixed in the air to make breathing difficult.
We noticed that a building was standing half torn down behind a construction fence on the corner. It made for an interesting picture because its neighbor remained untouched. Today, the half torn down building has completely disappeared and the other building is half gone. I suspect that by the end of next week they will have begun to pour the foundation for a new structure in place of the two buildings.
Within six days, workers have ripped up the entire side of Wangfujing Street that leads onto the Pedestrian Walkway, refurbished most of the stone paving on the Pedestrian Walkway, and torn down a building. The lessons learned here…don’t close your eyes for too long in China because you might wake up not knowing where you are!
-Cami Morrison
Pearl and Silk Market!
Bargaining. That is one of the things that I will miss the most about China. It is exhausting, yet very invigorating to bargain someone down to 2 American dollars for a t-shirt. Yesterday was our big day to show off our bargaining skills. The bus dropped us off yesterday afternoon at the Pearl and Silk Market which is conveniently located a few blocks away from our hotel. This place is ridiculously overwhelming. There is floor after floor of anything you can possibly imagine. Pearls. Silk. Chopsticks. Paintings. North Face. Polo. Suitcases. Purses. Jewelry. You name it and you can probably find it there. I set out for the essentials...pearls and silk. Amanda and I finally found the pearl section. Amazing. We finally found a booth that we were pleased with. We ended up buying ten strands of pearl necklaces with matching dangle earrings and we paid a GREAT price for them. It turned out to be about $6 a set. And the best part was that Rose, the shop owner, made them while I waited. Yes, it did take up a half hour of my time, but she was great to talk to. I met all of her friends in the surrounding booths that were very envious of our large purchase from her and then I ended up meeting her boyfriend of 5 years. After the half hour I would say that we are friends...quite close friends. Since I was such great company, she gave me two free pairs of studded pearl earrings and her email address so that we can keep in touch. So in the end I not only got a TON of pearls, but I made a very nice friend. All in all it was a TERRIFIC afternoon of bargaining and friend making.
I truly will miss this place. I can't believe we leave to go back to the States this time tomorrow. Five whole weeks have passed in what seems like only a few days. We have travelled so much and met so many great people that it will be very tough to leave behind. For me, this won't be my last time in China.
Till then,
Melissa Ginder
May 28, 2007
A Parental Advisory Stamp on this One
In know some of you might have just heard from me a couple hours ago, but I could not resist to throw in this story as soon as possible (that and my grade depends on it). Our five weeks in China have opened our eyes not just to a different culture, but an underground industry that would have Buddha himself turning in his grave. The streets of all the major cities we have visited from Shanghai all the way up to Beijing have been littered with Barber Shops and "Massage" Parlors. We soon learned (not from first hand experience, don't worry Mom and Dad) these establishments turn out to be fronts for the ladies of the night as my crazy high school English teacher might say, or to put in more bluntly, prostitutes. Apparently, prostitution is a fairly prominent industry in China and can be located in the most unsuspecting places. But until tonight that was as close as some of us witnessed these operations. It was about 1 am and a few of us were still up struggling on our final paper and a man right next door to my room exited his abode appearing to have plans to smoke a cigarette, but instead returned with what looked like a 15-year-old scantily-clad young woman (Chinese girls do generally look younger to give the man some credit if that's even possible). Within about 15 minutes to a half hour the shower could be heard running a couple of different times, and who knows what might be occurring right next door. I'll just assume the man was lonely on a business trip and just needed someone to talk to at one in the morning. All I can really say is only in China.
Shocked and Appalled,
Matt Danner
Fool Me Once . . .
How is it that our illustrious president put it? Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on . . . shame on . . . fool me can't be fooled again. I don't know if that's right, but you get the idea.
I have been fooled by the art student scam before. So, when I was walking down the streets of Beijing and a young Chinese girl wanted me to come visit her art exhibition, I politely declined. However, my running into her was like putting a gin and tonic into the hand of a recovering alcoholic. As I walked away I started to think that maybe I should have gone with her, perhaps I could have picked up a couple new pieces of a higher quality than the typical street merchant's goods.
So, when the next "art student" approached me, I gladly obliged her. However, I didn't find anything I liked, and I managed to leave without purchasing a single piece. But now my thirst for art needed to be quenched, so I began strollilng slowly waiting for more "students" to approach me.
I was elated when another Chinese girl stopped me to ask where I was from--the typical lead-in to him or her informing you he or she is an art student with an exhibition nearby. We started talking, engaging in the usual initial conversation, and I found myself walking with her down the street. After about ten minutes, though, she still had not mentioned her art exhibition. Becoming confused I decided to ask her what she was studying in school. She responded that she was majoring in English, and asked if I wanted to get some coffee with her so she could practice her English with me. I didn't immediately see anything wrong with this, so we set off down the road.
Then she turned down an unsightly looking alley, which continued to get worse and worse as it progressed. Suddenly I remembered how a good friend of mine on the language and culture trip had been lured in by a similar story in Shanghai and wound up being charged 750 yuan for a few cups of tea and some fruit. Thanks to his misfortune I was able to avoid a similar experience.
In the end, though, I felt that you really have to respect a country where you can go out trying to get scammed in one way, and unwittingly walk right into another scam instead. As our group is so fond of saying, this is China.
-Alex Weber
Wo ai China. China ai wo ma?
(Translation: I love China. China do you love me too?)
As you can see, my language abilities have become increasingly advanced during our 5 weeks here in China. Not only have I mastered the "I love you, do you love me too?" phrase, but almost-fluent-in-Chinese Bryce taught me the all-important phrase "do you have a girlfriend" today while we were waiting for an hour to cash our traveller's checks in the Bank of China.
Language mastery aside, I thought I would take a leaf out of Katie's book (coolest roomie ever) and create a list of some of the many things I will miss most about China. I can't write them all, but if you're lucky (like Professor Luecke... haha lucky, Luecke) you can read the complete version in the back of my China journal.
What I Will Miss Most About China 2007:
1. Using chopsticks every day
2. Ridiculously cheap meals
3. Ridiculously cheap everything
4. Getting excited by anything remotely Western
5. Being a celebrity/having your picture taken at all times by the Chinese
6. Mi fan (fried rice)
7. Never being quite sure of what I'm eating
8. Sketchy internet cafes
9. Club Bonbon/Windows/I Heart Shanghai
10. Chinese music videos
11. Chinese "bathrooms" aka squatters... NOT
12. Becoming a professional haggler
13. Ding dong ditching
14. Never really figuring out how to pronounce the Chinese word for bathroom
15. Talent shows in every city/town
16. Dumpling contests
17. Three Gorges/Great Wall sunsets and sunrises
18. Moped rides with random asians (don't worry Mom)
19. Owen
20. Lazy susans
21. Karate move pictures in the Forbidden City
22. Taking a picture in front of every Starbucks
23. Tossing out the peace sign in every picture
24. Playing ping pong against the mayor of Henglu
25. Wearing the same outfits for 5 weeks in a row (and being able to predict everyone else's outfits)
26. Katie's ridiculous haggling abilities
27. Peace sign pictures/7 hug days with Christina
28. Katie and I going to jump on Bryce and Danner's beds every day
29. Cami's obsession with Oreo's
30. Every Chinese girl hitting on Bryce
Those are just a few of the many things that I will most definitely miss about China 2007. There are countless more... but these are merely a handful of favorites that came to mind. I think back five weeks earlier to a fourteen hour plane ride where I was wondering what my China experience would entail. Who would have guessed I would have made so many close friends? Who would have guessed I would have tasted cow tongue, conquered the Great Wall, and learned how to bring a fake Gucci bag down from 600 yuan to 60, to name a few.
To say China has changed us all would be an understatement.
Coming back as soon as I can,
Caroline Davis
Great Wall, Great Conversation
On the bus ride to the Great Wall I wound up sharing a seat with a girl from the Beijing Sports University. She and I immediately hit it off when she complimented my ugly Hawaiian hat which the members of my group continue to prove unable to appreciate. She and I hiked most of the wall together, her English was great, and we were able to share a lot about our respective families and home lives etcetera. But the best was to come during the camping trip.
After we got to our camp site on the wall and set up our sleeping bags for the night, she and I found a place on the ledge and sat talking with our legs dangling over the side of the wall. Somewhere during our discussion our talk turned to, of all things, politics. It had probably been too long since I'd been able to go off on a nice, prolonged tangent in this regard, so I ended up expressing all of my frustrations with our country's current set of leaders. I accused both Republicans and Democrats alike of rampant corruption, complained about our lack of concern for the impoverished (which, despite my best efforts, I'm pretty sure she still does not believe exists in America), and listed a brief set of my other primary sources of anger. She was surprised a little, and was confused as to why we didn't just get rid of the current leaders and bring in a new set of upright ones. She was familiar with both the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution (which I was suprised to find are taught in Chinese schools) and said that she thinks the foundations of our government are right, even if the actual practice has become corrupted.
Anyway, somewhere along the way, almost out of nowhere, she turned to me and asked me if I--an expert in freedom in her mind--thought China's people would ever be "free." I assume what she meant was essentially whether it would become democratic. This was like a slap in the face for me. Travelling here I find the cities to be so similar to the United States that I often forget that these people live under such a radically different government. But here was this girl telling me that she didn't consider herself free and that she wanted to be. I think growing up in America we're simply so used to the idea of freedom that it's difficult to imagine life in any other way.
Sometime during this conversation I suggested that maybe both of our countries needed a revolution. Her reaction could not have been more vehemently opposed to such an action. She went off on a tirade extolling the hardship and suffering associated with revolutions--citing the French and Cultural Revolutions to support her arguments. She even used one of my personal favorite sayings: "The road to Hell is paved with good intentions." This girl adamantly believed that change should come slowly with time, and that rapid revolution was always negative.
I felt both of these reactions provided a telling glimpse into the psychology of the Chinese of my generation. Make of it what you will.
-Alex Weber
Dear Blog
Dear Blog,
I don't think we should see each other anymore. I know this hurts, but we both knew it just couldn't last. Look, it's not you, it's me. I'm getting on a plane and going back to America tomorrow, and I just don't think there's a place for this relationship in my life at home.
We had some good times. Remember when I got scammed by those "art students" on the Nanjing road, or that time I got so lost in Wuhan? Wow, that was really crazy. But we were just kids back then. Now I think we both need to grow up, just let the past be the past, and cherish the fond memories for all that they're worth.
I know you helped me overcome my art addiction, and I'm really thankful for that, but that doesn't change the fact that I have to go back to America. Don't act like you didn't know exactly what you were getting into when we first met. All good things must come to an end, even trips to China. As Bob Dylan would say, "The times they are a changing." I think we both need to take those words to heart.
So, thanks for the good times, but it's time we both moved on--me to my internship in DC, and you . . . while I guess this is pretty much the end for you. Such is life.
-Alex Weber
TIC 2007: The Highlights
As we prepare to leave China on Wednesday we can't help but be a bit nostalgic about our five weeks here. After all, This Is China. Here are a few of my favorite moments from each city we visited during our journey:
Shanghai: To commemorate our last night in Shanghai, our group ventured to a club called Bon Bon. At first a bit apprehensive to follow Taylor's directions once again, we wound up at a great spot with a million-mile tall doorman. We all enjoyed a fun night with an enthusiastic DJ and vivacious atmosphere. The most memorable moments of the night included a crazy bathroom where the water in the faucet came from the ceiling, a dance contest featuring Caroline and Cami, a VIP table complete with addictive dice games and music from America. It was a night when all of us were together and justly represents the fun of Shanghai.
Henglu: Henglu was all about the people. The village was such a culture shock and the best part for all of us I think was getting to interact with all of the kids that lived there. My favorite part of the weekend was Saturday night: dumplings and the talent show. Competing with 10 other people for a bowl of dumplings, chopstick against vicious chopstick in the bowl, was both hillarious and exhausting, and ultimately very satisfying. The talent show, where Caroline, Cami and I performed My Girl, was really fun and the juxtaposition of American culture, like the theme song from Fresh Prince of Bel-Air, and Chinese culture was depictive of the cultural differences in a fun way.
Hangzhou: After hearing about it from everyone we talked to, we finally got to see West Lake. It was absolutely beautiful, with lush gardens and beautiful architecture. Matt, Cami, Caroline and I enjoyed overpriced tea and delicious noodles and fried rice (two helpings) overlooking the lake. While we never found the peony garden we had been searching for, we encountered several photo shoots and even some peacocks.
Wuhan: Wuhan was a fun city with great shopping. A personal highlight was the tshirt I bought that reads Big Mac and then Attack underneath it five times in different colors. As a group, we all really enjoyed the Wuhan Institute of Physical Education. Getting to see the gymnasts train was an awe-inspiring sight. Also, talking with the students was exciting because they were all so enthusiastic about talking with American students. It was yet another opportunity to exchange emails and further the America-China network we've seen growing since we've been here.
The Splendid China: The cruise was fantastic. Actually going through the Three Gorges Dam was something I'll always remember. I think my favorite part of the cruise was the talent show. Our dance to the Jock Jams Mega Mix was so much fun to prepare and even more fun to perform. While part of me didn't want to satisfy the boat director Linda by entering the talent show, it was definitely worth it for our great costumes and creative dance moves. Yet, I'm still a little bitter that they started our music too softly at first and we had to skip a couple of the best moves, but Bryce still had his solo at the end which was a vital part of the routine. Also, as posted earlier, gua sha was awesome.
Beijing: I slept on the only man-made structure visible from space. Camping on the Great Wall of China is quite possibly the highlight of our entire China trip. We actually got to see stars in China and instead of being woken up early by Linda's voice, we were woken up early by the sun. Using my cell phone on the Great Wall of China was also an interesting mix of old and new aspects of China's culture. One thing I don't love about the Great Wall is that there's nowhere to go to the bathroom and drinking water requires the decision between being thirsty, having to hike down to use the bathroom, or having to hold it all night. Being slightly uncomfortable was definitely worth sleeping there, and it was somewhat alleviated by delicious Oreos, which from now on will always make me think of Cami. Also in Beijing I bought a sword, and I'm really excited about that.
Coming home soon and back here eventually!
Katie Simpson
American Day
So yesterday was officially American Day in China! Maybe not according to the Chinese calendar but by my decree it was official and I think the Chinese will probably catch on due to the awesomeness that it brings. I started off American Day with a little trip to everybody's favorite fast food restaurant, McDonalds of course, where I got a nice juicy double cheeseburger, some fries, and a Coke, a pretty nice taste of home. I followed lunch up with a quick trip to the Häagen-Dazs for some strawberry ice cream, but this wasn't your typical Häagen-Dazs in the U.S. They sat us at a nice table, gave us a menu to order off of and then brought us nice glasses of water with lemon in them, much better service than you could ever get back home and the great thing is there are NO TIPS IN CHINA! I continued my self proclaimed holiday with dinner at the Outback Steakhouse. Now I know that Outback is "Australian" but don't kid yourself, I'm pretty sure they don't even have it in Australia so I think it counts for American. There I got a nice juicy sirloin with a loaded baked potato and a caesar salad, definitely something I've been craving for awhile. Unfortunately, the bill ended up being about what it would be at home, about 202 yuan or about 20 bucks, but it was well worth it. For once I finally went to bed with a full stomach. Overall American Day was a complete success and I think those that were fortunate enough to participate in or the Chinese who witnessed the greatness that was American Day would definitely agree.
Your Missionary for America,
Matt Danner
Snookered at Silk Alley
So today we hit the Silk Alley for some intense shopping! I went in there with a list of a few things I wanted to pick up, one of which was a North Face fleece -- not because I needed it, but because it's so cheap you just think, "Why not?"
The jackets were all on one level of this multi-level mall of numerous fake goods. All of the stalls with jackets kept their North Faces hidden and you had to ask for them specifically. I had been to a few already, and either did not like the styles brought out or could not bargain very low. I finally found a North Face Windstopper fleece that I really liked, but the woman insisted on selling me the outside shell jacket as well. I really did not want that part, and wanted to pay only 80-90 yuan for the fleece. People had already gotten the fleece and gortex combo for anywhere ranging from 100 to 175 yuan.
I went round and round with these ladies, and everytime I tried to walk away they would grab at me and box me into their little store. It was horrible! I eventually walked away and the lady came running back and agreed to my price. Before I knew it she was wrapping up my black fleece in a bag and I was paying her 92 yuan (She really squeezed me for those last two yuan).
Unfortunately, it was not until I got home that I realized that not only had she put a different black North Face in my bag, but it was a MUCH larger size. :-0. I WAS SO ANGRY!!! Had I still been at the market, I would have gone back and forced the lady to trade back, but it was already too late. It was very frustrating for me, but I guess that is what I get for getting greedy for cheap goods.
Snookered at Silk Alley,
Amanda Kane
Beijing: Another City That Never Sleeps
The minute we started exploring the streets of Beijing the first thing we noticed (besides the horrible air pollution of course) was the construction going on all around us. Torn up walkways would frequently force us into the streets where a green light never gave you permission to cross in a carefree manner. We are all used to areas being taped off for construction purposes, “do not cross this boundary” signs we dutifully obey; however, on the streets of Shanghai the construction is happening mere inches away from your open-toed sandals and unprotected eyes.
Last night as we returned home from our Outback Steakhouse dinner, workers lined the streets breaking up cement walkways, their work partitioned off by a single yellow tape. The people passing us had their hands covering their mouths to protect from the dust which would soon be causing us to gasp and cough only half a block later. Giant holes that we had seen perfectly well in the daylight would be close-calls when the sun went down. But these 24-7 construction sites and what you think would be very hazardous conditions for pedestrians don’t seem to concern anyone. The work has to get done some time in order for the country to keep expanding and trying to find any time during the day in which millions of Chinese aren't out and about seems impossible.
Coughing up a lung,
Sarah McCarville
May 27, 2007
Enjoy China While We Can...
Today it hit me after a few communication victories - I am exhausted. Somehow I was able to successfully communicate that I wanted my sushi for take-away, I bought a new outfit at the Nike store (laundry? at these prices we have decided that buying new clothes is a better alternative...) and somehow I explained my unusual order to the accommodating Starbucks barista. Accomplishing what would be routine activities in America sends me running to my hotel room for a nap in China.
Maybe the fact that we just hiked 13 km of the Great Wall yesterday (it was AWEsome!) which translates into thirteen kilometers of walking up and down stairs, is why I am tired. Or, maybe the root of my fatigue is the mere three hours of sleep I allowed myself last night as I stayed awake for as long as possible to savor the moment - we were camping out on top of the Great Wall of China. Or maybe I am mentally tired from being in such a different culture for five weeks.
Despite my woes, I have to keep things in perspective. We only have three more days here in China. I am definitely excited to be going home, but we are all pushing ourselves to live it up these last few days. America will be waiting for us. We have had so many amazing experiences. We have done things many people never have the opportunity to do. We are living in the most architecturally exciting city at the moment (caught a glimpse of the famous "water cube" and "bird's nest" in Olympic Park yesterday and today).
There remains so much to look forward to before we board that bird for our 14 hour flight home. Tomorrow we are going to the silk and pearl markets! And, as always in China, you never know when you're going to have one of those moments that turns into a story for the ages. "Hey, remember that time when we were hiking the Great Wall..."
Going to sleep at 9 PM,
Christina Dixon
The Physics of Chinese buses
I would be happy if I never had to ride on a bus again.
Maybe it’s just the buses in China, but the leg room on these vehicles is pretty much non-existent! I have a lot of sympathy for the guys on this trip with long legs—poor Alex Weber opted to sprawl out on the floor of the bus rather than force his knees to bend in unnatural ways.
They are not terribly comfortable for sleeping either, which is something our group tends to do a lot, considering each bus ride is about 40-50 minutes (thank you, Phillip). There is really no place to rest your head if you are in the aisle, so you end up hanging your head as you sway violently back and forth on the treacherous roads. Or there is the mouth-to-the-sky position where your head kind of rolls back and your mouth hangs open like you are waiting for rain. Or you can even bury your head into the seat in front of you, but this would likely result in a headache from the jerky motions of the bus. There is really no easy solution to sleeping gracefully on China’s buses.
Last, there is the microphone. I have grown to despise these inventions. I think we have all learned the trick of jamming our I-Pod earphones deep into our ears to drown out the voices of guides who try to teach us meaningless phrases in Chinese or carry on about historical facts that we are too tired to think about absorbing.
Overall, though, we have all bonded over these uncomfortable road trips. After we return to the states, I can definitely promise I will avoid buses for a long while!
Jessica Shaw
Salad & Cereal
To celebrate our victory in climbing, hiking, and yes, sleeping, on the Great Wall of China, Maggie, Alisha, and I decided to get good old fashioned American food tonight in Beijing! We dined at a restaurant that I had never heard of, but was basically identical to Ruby Tuesdays in Lexington. I walked in, took one look at the salad bar, and was in heaven! Never have I been so happy to see bell peppers and cauliflower.
Three plates of salad later, we all felt pregnant. It was well worth it though! We took “before and after” photos just to document our progress. We all felt like we might need a wheelbarrow to haul us out of the restaurant and back onto the streets of Beijing.
Before we left the mall where the restaurant was located, however, I asked if we could stop by the supermarket (I know, more food). I really needed apples, and there was a convenient location right in the mall! I secretly hoped we would find cereal (my weakness), but I did not count on anything. When I found the apples, my jaw dropped- they were beautiful! I do not think I have ever seen more gorgeous apples, but then again, we were pretty dizzy from our ten-course dinner.
I told Alisha and Maggie that I was going to walk around for a second just to see if they had any form of cereal. I am so used to walking into Chinese supermarkets and having NO idea what I am doing, what I am buying, or where I am going. I stopped dead in my tracks. There was an entire display FULL of cereal—I nearly keeled over right there, and then they would have REALLY had to get the stretcher! Alisha even took a picture—I was aghast! They had more cereal than I could dream of in China. Of course, I ended up dishing out about eight dollars a box, but I got two for the last two days in Beijing. I am probably going to pack it in my luggage to take home.
Finally, after discovering more American treats, they dragged me to the cashier, and we left. We walked to mile or so back to our hotel feeling like we were going to explode. Hey, at least I took the stairs!
-Jessica Shaw
I heart Chopsticks!
As I was journal writing today after a delicious lunch at a Chinese restaurant down the street from our hotel, I realized how much I love chopsticks. Before I left for China, my dad (Hi dad!) took me to a Chinese restaurant in my home town of Jacksonville, FL so that I could practice my skills. It took me over an hour to eat a bowl of rice with beef and vegetables. Quite sad. I remember telling him that I would be fine because I was sure there would be plenty of forks and knifes for me to eat with instead. Wrong. Everyone in every city we have been to only eats with chopsticks. After many meals where we struggle to pick up peanuts or slippery itty bitty noodles, I think it is safe to say that we have become Chopstick masters. It has even come to the point where I prefer chopsticks over fork and knife. Just today, I put jelly on my steamed bun with a chopstick instead of the knife they provided me. In our time here, I have eaten anything from fruit to salad or rice to soup with chopsticks.
It is going to be so strange to get back to the States where chopsticks aren't a regular item at the dinner table.
Preparing for Chopstick withdrawal,
Melissa Ginder
Beijing Olympics 2008
On Friday we visited the Beijing City Planning Museum. The museum was interesting because we got to see 3-D movie about all of the changes the city was making for the upcoming Olympics. The city is building all new stadiums, swim facilities, tennis courts, an Olympic Village, and new things like metro lines to make travelling throughout the city easier! The new buildings they are constructing are amazing. The museum also had models of each part. The two major ones are the National Aquatics Center and the National Stadium. The National Aquatics Center is where all of the swimming events will take place, and the whole building looks like it is giant blue bubbles which are supposed to protect the air inside the aquatic center. National Stadium looks like a type of birds nest with a lot of criss crossing metal into a stadium.
What made the visit to the museum cooler was that the next day we got to drive past these venues. The stadium is HUGE. It really makes you want to come back and see it when it is fully completed and the games are going on. I am pretty fascinated by the National Aquatics Center because I have never seen anything like it before. We managed to get some good pictures of it, but it is the kind of thing you just want to go poke, and see for yourself!
Here's a link to the official venues:
http://en.beijing2008.cn/46/67/column211716746.shtml
Check it out!
~Amanda Kane
The Great Wall of China...Not so Great for sleeping
Last night our entire group, minus Pen Pen and Prof. Luecke who opted for the more comfortable cabins down below(smart), spent the night on of the only man made structure visible from space. We started out from the cabins where we ended had ended our hike at about dusk, and began to chug once again up the steps of the Great Wall. We didnt travel far before we reached the tower in which we would set up camp, each up us with only a sleeping back, mat for comfort, and whatever else we decided to lug up with us. Some of us, myself included, took to the sleeping bags quite quickly, tired from a long day hiking, while others seemed to stay up talking, some louder than others (Caroline). At about 3:30 or 4:00 we were all abruptly awoken by a group British travellers who didnt bother lowering their voices and they passed, and also though it would be a good idea to shine their flashlights on everyone. It actually turned out to be a good thing because at that point the stars were fully out and beautiful, before the moon had been too bright to see anything. Once one person awoke at about 5:30 am the rest of us followed, and I found that mat did not really do its job for my back and neck felt like I had been beaten. But the pain was definately worth the once in a lifetime experience. We quickly packed up our sleeping bags and headed back down the hill, most of us anxious to get back on the bus and get to the hotel for some real sleep
In a lot of Pain,
Matt Danner
The Great Wall Indeed
I did it, I climbed the great wall!!! Our group set out bright and early on Saturday to embark on a trip I will never forget. You could sense the apprehension on the bus as this would be all of ours first time on China’s Great Wall. We had no idea what to expect, which was evident as we constantly questioned one another as to what we were packing, what we were leaving on the bus, and how long this should take. In the parking lot, our fearless leaders informed us that if we were going to turn back it would have to be soon because the bus would be meeting the rest of us on the other side. I will admit that given the scorching heat, I was wondering how long I would make it before fatigue and dehydration would force me to turn around. Not to be discouraged, a few of us walked over to the vendors beside the gate and picked out some rather tasteful hats to help protect us from nature’s fury. However, before we started our trek along the wall, we had to hike to it, which was a feat in itself. Various steep inclines and flights of stairs painted a diluted picture of what was to come. To jump start our journey and perhaps test our will, was an intimidating wire bridge crossing the river which formed a gap in the wall itself. It seemed to mock us as it swayed in the wind. I continued undaunted due to the support of my professor, with whom I exchanged phrases of encouragement the whole way across to keep from looking down. This was the easy part. As soon as I stepped on the wall, my stomach sank a little as my eyes followed the stairs up into the sky, clear past the horizon. Foolishly, I refrained from pacing myself, skipping steps and hopping from stone to stone as if the finish line was already in sight. Thirty minutes and three bottles of water later, I was dead. My legs had been reduced to gelatin and the penetrating heat made it impossible for me to regain my strength. But I was not alone and whenever someone dropped to a knee, our tight knit group was quick to shove some water in his/her face and urge him/her on. We had about thirty towers to pass through and each one was an average 8-10 minutes apart. Taking some time to rest in the first few towers helped me cool down and get back on reasonable pace. Along the way, there were hoards of peddlers and “tour guides” offering everything from paintings and t-shirts to ice water and shortcuts diverting the steepest parts of the journey. Although I did indulge in a bottle of ice water, I am proud to say that I stayed on the wall the entire time and refrained from any shortcuts. Parts of the wall were more rubble than relic and the climbing was arduous, each step having to be carefully planned, but once we got to tower twenty-five, we reached the “new” part of the wall having been renovated within the last thirty years. By the time we reached the end, it had been about four hours and my legs were contracting as if they were going into labor, but when I saw Pen-Pen’s bright orange shirt on top of the last tower, signifying our exit, I nearly leaped for joy. Climbing the Great Wall was a challenge, no doubt about it, but the overwhelming feeling of accomplishment as you stumble down the last few steps onto the ground are priceless, and I will most certainly remember this adventure for the rest of my life.
Sincerely,
Ryan MacPhee
May 25, 2007
Sidewalk Behavior
Something I have noticed while walking around Chinese cities is that I am constantly having near-collisions with oncoming walkers. Is there a walking pattern? If so, I am still waiting to catch on. Here in Beijing, I was walking along the pedestrian mall tonight and I had to keep my eye on the mass of people I was walking in because the second I turned to look at a storefront (or a construction worker jackhammering ... there were a few workers every 10 feet or so) I was a gonner! "Nee-how," (hello) person walking toward me in the other direction. On my less-crowded walk back to the hotel, I found myself having run-ins when passing the tortoises - it seemed like if I passed on the left they walked left into me. Then I tried to pass on the right, and that, too, was unsuccessful.
During my time in Spain, I also noticed a difference in sidewalk behavior. Most significantly, in Sevilla you pass fellow walkers on the right as opposed to passing on the left common in America. I learned this Spanish lesson very quickly as I routinely packed my 35 minute walk to morning classes into a zippy 20 minutes.
Maybe I was just having an off night on the sidewalks of the Middle Kingdom and there is a pattern in what seems to be chaos. And despite the government crackdowns on, eh, public spitting, I can assure you of its continued prevalence. All you "hares" out there, beware of passing because you never know when the tortoise might, eh-hem, decide to clear his throat. Pedestrian life in China is never dull.
Christina Dixon
Ladies and Gentlemen... Let's Get Ready to Rumble...
If you are a sports fanatic or simply a closet Jock Jams song lover, you will recognize this phrase. It comes from the Jock Jams Medley song. A few of us (Katie, Bryce, Kristen, and I) thought that the Chinese people should have the chance to become familiar with the song as well. I mean come on, pounding beats and uplifting cheerleading chants... who wouldn't want to learn the song?
Anyway, during our boat trip on the Yangtze River, we grasped at an opportunity to show the Chinese some of our dance skills. On the last night of the boat trip there was a Talent Show. None of our American group was originally going to participate in the show at first.
This may come as a shock to all your readers, but let me explain our reasoning: the girl in charge of putting on the show, Linda, was also in charge of waking us up at 6:30 A.M. every morning. And by 'wake up' I mean there was a speaker built into the side table of our cabins on the boat and there was no way to unplug/muffle the sound on this speaker. Therefore, the early morning wake up calls combined with late nights spent on the boat's 5th level dance floor made us a little unhappy with Linda's chipper voice in the morning.
Back to the main point. Jock Jams. Katie, Bryce, Kristen and I decided to choreograph a dance to the Jock Jams Medley mix. We made up some crazy dance moves (see Napoleon Dynamite for a few of the specific dance move details) and put them together into what we hoped would be a stunning performance.
That night we dressed in our best sporty apparel and headed to the Talent Show to get the party started. Before our dance there were a few other performances. Various Chinese groups sang beautiful songs (not sure what they were about) but beautiful just the same. An Australian man also sang a heart wrenching song that was met with rousing applause. Met with such serious performances, we were a little wary of what everyone would think of our act.
I could try and be modest about it, but I don't think there is any need: we were AWESOME. Despite the fact that our song started too quietly at first and I wasn't able to portray the full effect of "LADIES AND GENTLEMEN... LET'S GET READY TO RUMBLE" on a microphone, we definitely impressed the majority of the audience. Luckily I was able to trick my eyes into pretending that the Chinese faces looking back at me were not completely stunned and baffled. I'm sure Professor Pirkle, Professor Luecke, and Pen-Pen were really proud.
As our trip comes to a close, I hope we will all be able continue the spread of our American dance moves and customs. Perhaps our hike on the Great Wall tomorrow will be another fabulous opportunity for infiltrating our Western cheer.
Hoop there it is,
Caroline Davis
Forbidden City Starbucks: Culturally Enriching?
I wouldn’t want to refer to Tiananmen Square as a detour to my own daily schedule but after walking a good thirty minutes from our hotel most of us were anticipating an immediate pit stop at the Starbucks within the Forbidden City.
After throwing up the peace sign for multiple photo shoots with one another and many Chinese, we passed through the Forbidden City gates. Our eyes searched the surrounding buildings frantically for the familiar dark green circle of our favorite American coffee shop. Only after I had my mocha frappuccino in hand would I be able to stop for a second and take in the incredible architecture and the swarms of people passing through this impressive site.
The Starbucks was hidden in a building structured to resemble those traditional buildings around it, but its disguise didn’t prove to hurt business because the store was packed with fellow coffee-lovers. We shouted our order to the three lone employees behind the counter requesting not only beverages but also tee shirts, indecisively changing colors and styles multiple times because you definitely need a shirt to prove to everyone at home that yes, I drank coffee from a Starbucks in Beijing. They’ll never believe you until they see your shirt of course! Oh pay no mind to the fact that you happened to be touring the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square.
The Starbucks placement within the Forbidden City received a great amount of attention as many protested its construction in 2000. Though I previously shrugged off the controversy of putting an American coffee shop in the imperial palace, I then realized I had spent at least 45 minutes within five feet of the Starbucks. And trust me, there is plenty of other space to walk around.
I would have to agree with those who fought to keep Starbucks out of the Palace Museum because I left with only a Beijing Starbucks tee shirt to show for my visit to one of the world’s top five most famous palaces.
Caffeine high,
Sarah McCarville
Step-child dinners...
I’ve noticed an unpleasant trend in the seating arrangements of some Chinese restaurants. Whenever our group is seated for a meal, more often than less, we are seated in a remote area of the restaurant. I can remember two specific occasions when the restaurant was less than half full, but we were seated in a corner away from other occupied tables. I thought maybe the fact that we're a group of 20 may have influenced this decision, but there was definitely enough available seating nearby to accommodate our group. In Hangzhou, the two tables we sat at for our welcome lunch were actually blocked off by fence-like partitions. It was very bizarre... In Wuhan, restaurants almost always had two floors, and for the most part, foreigners were seated on the second floor. I'm noticing the same thing in Beijing. It’s as if the hostesses make a conscious effort to keep us away from the Chinese - Do they think that as foreigners, we prefer to be secluded? Part of the reason I came here was to live and interact with the Chinese up close, not from a distance. One of my most memorable meals was when we sat next to two tables of men enjoying themselves entirely too much as they downed glasses of rice wine. Sometimes I wonder if maybe the Chinese prefer not to have foreigners sit near them… Is it silly to imagine that Chinese guests actually request not to be seated by foreigners? Perhaps, but if it is the case that the Chinese believe we want to maintain our distance, I hope someone gives them a heads up before we end up eating in the closet!
Alisha Laventure
‘09
Alisha Laventure
‘09
Christmas in May?
I think the Chinese have a slight obsession with Christmas. You know how a lot of public places have a form of elevator music playing in the background? Well, I’ve been to at least three restaurants in three different Chinese cities where instead of smooth jazz, I heard Christmas music playing in the background. The first time I heard it, I thought to myself, “Do my ears deceive me? Am I really dining to the instrumental of Silver Bells? I could’ve sworn Buddhism was the popular religion of choice here…” Even on our boat cruise down the Yangtze River, Christmas melodies were played in the lounges. The songs had a smoother, jazzier tempo, and words were muted out. Who would’ve thought the Chinese would take such a liking to holiday music?
In class, we’ve learned that while Christianity is not a dominant religion in China, it is being practiced in greater numbers. At this point, Christian churches operate much like secret, underground ventures. I just can’t believe holiday music was the first element of Christianity to go mainstream. A lot of holiday songs do have beautiful melodies that I suppose could be appropriate background music. But while I love Christmas music, I would not want to hear it on a regular basis. I don’t think I would appreciate it as much if I heard it throughout the entire year. There’s something about turning on the radio in late November/early December and hearing Christmas music for the first time in ten months. It’s almost like magic. I don’t think I’d want to loose that feeling.
Alisha Laventure
‘09
Pool Troubles
Yesterday, we visited Capital Normal University where we will have classes the next couple of days...and the exciting part of this story is...I found a SWIMMING POOL!!! As a swimmers at W&L, this was very exciting for Jess Shaw and I. As we entered the building that the pool was located in, we were concerned that we couldn't smell the pool. In the States, whenever you enter a building that has an indoor pool in it, you are normally overwhelmed with the smell of chlorine. Here in Beijing, that wasn't the cause.
Once we finally found the pool, Jess and I entered through the ladies locker room. I stepped on what I thought was a glass floor, which in fact turned out to be a mini-pool to rinse off your feet before entering the pool. Of course I had tennis shoes on so they were completely soaked after that mistake.
The pool itself was only 3 lanes, but it did have a few swimmers in it. We were told that it cost 30 yuan for an hour to swim, which Pen Pen told us was quite expensive. I highly doubt I will have the time to go swimming in it though I really wish I did. I thought that China would be a nice 5 week break from the pool, but I quickly learned that I was mistaken that water here, in all forms, is off limits. Even if I did have time to go swimming the fact that I have no idea how clean or how chlorinated (if it is at all) the pool is. Im sure it is perfectly fine to swim in, but as someone who has been around pools all my life, I am a little skeptical at taking that chance.
Anxiously awaiting our return to the States,
Melissa Ginder
We love (shopping in) China!
Today was exceptionally beautiful, a clear blue sky and sunshine. Aside from being a little warm, it was a great day to shop in Beijing. We all went to the pedestrian walkway, lined on both sides with tons of stores ranging from typical Chinese trinkets and official olympic stores to Chanel and TCBY (I obviously ate and enjoyed an ice cream cone). The walkway was bustling and there was a ton to see, and then Bryce and I discovered the little walkway parallel to the main avenue．
The alley was lined with predictable merchandise: chopsticks, silk, scrolls, statues, jewelry. Before we walked in we braced ourselves and got ready to be bombarded by vendors asking "you like?" or "how much?" The first mini store we went into, where we ran into Professor Pirkle, sold paintings on scrolls. I got a few for mediocre prices, after brief and standard negotiation. Bryce went on to really haggle with the woman for a great price, and you could tell she loved it. She kept saying his price was higher than mine because he was a boy, and every time she offered a price she'd say "ok ok ok, last price, please, thank you." After an entertaining back and forth, she settled on his price. Then Bryce thought in his head for a minute, laughed a little, and leaned over, asking if he could borrow some money. We laughed about it for a long time. A little farther down the alley, I bought a stone and had in engraved for my roommate, Sarah, with her Chinese name. I made sure to ask the woman if she really did write Sarah, or just a curse word that I would never understand and they could all laugh about forever.
Continuing down the alley, I bought some silk robes, after refuting the woman's claim that they were indeed real silk and of high quality. I also found a really cool Samurai-type statue that I was able to pay for in US dollars, which you'd expect would really help you get a great deal, but whatever mild interest the hagglers have in dollars is overcome by the realization that you obviously can afford to pay an extra 50 cents for that statue. Also, I expected that by using US dollars I'd have an advantage in being able to quickly convert the currencies and negotiate. But they obviously have a lot of experience with tourists and never dropped the ball on exchange rates.
After making our way down the alley, we really got in the groove and were feeling great. Every store we went into, Bryce would say "Just look. No buy," in anticipation of the same remark coming from the vendor. Most laughed because they completely understood. We've really gotten used to the system, understanding the up-down game, where they come down in price and then it's your turn to up the offer. Bryce tried a few times to up his offer by 1 yuan, but they don't really like that.
We were finally within a few blocks of the hotel, lugging along our loot. So we decided to buy suitcases. It was our final event of the trip, haggling some more and laughing with the women working in the store because it's always the same routine and we all knew it. I settled on a generic black rolling back, but soon regretted buying something so plain. So I convinced the woman to let me trade bags with another in the store for a few extra US dollars. It was great to throw all of the day's prizes into my new bag.
We walked the remaining blocks such obvious tourists: Bryce with two backs and me rolling a large hard-cover suitcase with a picture of a rhinocerous in roller skates on the front. We decided at that moment that we love China.
Katie Simpson
Cricket Fighting
What type of event could attract bets larger even then horse races? In Beijing, the answer is cricket fights. Sitting in the back of a small rickshaw, we navigated the narrow streets and alleys of Beijing, seeking out traditional hutongs, chopsticks, and cheap Rolexes. Perhaps the most entertaining stop on our trip was the hutong where the infamous Cricket Lee and his wife resided. We entered in through a maze of bird cages, fishbowls, and an eclectic array of other animals. After exchanging a quick “ni hao” to the wide-eyed bird at the door, we were given a warm welcome by Cricket Lee complete with tea and some crunchy peanuts. As our friend Amy Li translated, Cricket Lee gave us the logistics on his favorite hobby- Cricket Fighting. Although he was retired, Cricket maintained a steady income behind his prized crickets along with the occasional visit from tourists looking for something to write home about. He pulled out a large stone jar which once opened, revealed a tiny cricket dwelling, complete with sleeping quarters, food, and water. He proceeded to explain the many intricacies of the sport. Before the fight, the crickets are weighed to make sure the battle is even. Wranglers then irritate the crickets by tickling their tails with mouse whiskers on the end of a short stick (I am not even kidding). The battle is over when only one cricket is standing and the other lie motionless in defeat. The cricket is then returned to his home where there is a Mrs. Cricket to heal any wounds and reward his hard work. Since crickets only live around several months, Cricket Lee has a small army of lethal crickets he raises. His skills have even brought him fame as he showed us articles from various magazines. But that’s not all. Out of two small gourds, Cricket Lee pulled out two giant grasshoppers that had been chirping in the corner of the room since we got there. Grasshoppers are sometimes kept as pets and admired for the sound they make when they rub their wings together. Given his serious collection of other animals, I would have been surprised if he did not have his own pair of grasshoppers. He pulled them out and displayed them in all their glory, and they received a strong reaction from everyone-both oohs and ahhs along with a few shrieks. Our visit to Cricket Lee’s house was one of the most interesting experiences we have had this whole trip; the guy was a riot and was quick to draw a smile out of everyone.
Still loving China,
Ryan MacPhee
Cricket Lee showing us one of many articles praising his infamous crickets
The tools of the trade
Reigning Champ and his lady
musical grasshoppers
Photos by: Ryan MacPhee
May 24, 2007
My Name is Alex, and I Have an Art Problem
They say the first step to conquering your addiction is to admit that you have one. Well I'm here to let it be known that I have a problem. I am completely addicted to buying Chinese art. It all started when a young girl on the Nanjing road, portraying herself as an art student, tricked me into paying way too much for a painting of the yin and yang horses. "I'll give it to my girlfriend," I thought, "It will make a really sweet gift." That's how it starts.
Then the painting grows on you, and you decide to find another, even cuter one to give to her so you can keep the first one. But that's not enough for you. Now while shopping for a new one for her you spot one for your little sister, and then one you just have to have for yourself. "They're only 30 yuan," you say, "I can afford just one more."
But it won't stop there. Pretty soon you need matching scrolls of calligraphy to go with your yin and yang horses. You'll find two in a little back alley store, but doubt weighs heavy on your mind. You wonder, "Are there better ones still out there?" All of a sudden you have a plumb blossom painting, but then you find out that plumb blossoms, pine, and bamboo are called the "Three Friends" and always go together. Now you have to scour Beijing to complete your set. Somewhere in there you find yourself in the back room of a dimly lit shop having your Chinese name painted and framed by a complete stranger. What would your parents think?
Finally you find the tapestries. This is the hard stuff. They're big, flashy, always "hand stitched" according to the sales person and come in a variety of fabrics. How much can you spend? Maybe you'll start with 25 or 50 yuan. But what about that silk depiction of the Forbidden City? Wouldn't that look great on the wall in your room in the fraternity house?
It's a cold, cold world out there for the lonely addict. This country is dangerous.
-Alex Weber
Tour of the Hutongs
After a whirlwind tour of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, the class was guided to the old neighborhoods of Beijing, the Hutongs. The Hutongs are one story, winding developments that have been around since the 1300s. We travelled traditionally, in rickshaws. On the sides of the narrow alleys, gates lead to courtyards with 3 homes facing in. Street life is lively and curious onlookers were around virtually every corner.
The underside of this is that we saw as many internet cafes as private homes on the way through. The homes looked small, cramped and hot and the people on the streets were more likely than not trying to sell us "Rolexes". The rooftops didn't look like similar housing in European cities; there simply weren't the satellite dishes and power hookups that characterize the cityscapes there. The rickshaws were simply bicycles with a large cabin attached to the back, rather than reliant upon pure manpower like in the 19th and early 20th century. The hutongs were close to major roads and our rickshaw drivers felt no compulsions about putting us in front of Beijing's speeding fleet of Hyundai taxis. In fact, cars were inside the alleys of the hutongs, though they looked pretty ridiculous when they tried to go more than 3 km/hr. The doors to courtyards looked like they hadn't been painted since 1911 and everywhere had enough trash to remind you that garbage trucks can't enter the alleys.
This experience was unique and the rickshaw drivers were doing some brisk business; the parking lot they depart from was jammed with tour buses. However, just today, the meager English language papers mentioned demolition of certain hutongs. On top of the Drum Tower, a western tourist trap, we could see how the hutongs close to roads were often piles of rubble, but the houses in the center of the neighborhood were untouched. The Drum Tower was a reminder that the hutongs were unique in modern Beijing, as skyscrapers loomed in the distance every direction we looked.
Should Beijing destroy its hutongs to fit in with the rest of the city? Should it keep them as a tourist attraction, much as the Yangtze River kept its trackers working years past they became useless? Should they renovate them and turn them into commercial districts, like Shanghai? Or, should they remain where they are, glaring remnants of the age of the emporers in the heart of one of the world's most modern cities?
Personally, I can't see the hutongs remaining as they are in Beijing. The living conditions simply aren't good enough to warrant their stagnation; I shudder when I consider that the entire city used to look like them. However, their design is quite genteel and civilized; its courtyards and old alleys, surprisingly, reminded me of New Orleans and Charleston's. Renovating the buildings would be an ordeal- two bikes often have difficulty passing each other and some houses are blocks from major roads. So, the hutongs have no choice but to become tourist attractions. I wish them luck.
-Taylor Woods
The Urban Impoverished
As massive tour groups filed out the exit of the Forbidden City, a small boy darted in front of people with his small hands folded, stumbling backwards to keep up with the startled tourists. When they tried to brush him aside or ignore him, he was persistent. His arms reached out from his worn and filthy t-shirt, begging for money. From a distance, his mother kept a close eye on him.
This boy was only one of the many beggars that hovered outside this tourist hotspot. I could not watch as some had missing limbs and hardly any teeth. This same boy and his mother approached me, and she pointed insistently to my water bottle. I was confused at first, because she kept repeating water and pointing at her thirsty child. Someone mumbled to me that she wanted to give my water to her little boy, and he gulped it down like he had not had fluid in weeks. She then continued to beg for money with her child at her side.
Fifty or so yards away, a man with a distorted body was mounted on a piece of wood with wheels on its underside. He propelled himself forward using his arms and tried to get the attention of tourists exiting the landmark. Another elderly woman walked around with a plastic bag collecting plastic bottles that she would later exchange for a small amount of currency.
Sadly, this is the part of this country that is so easy to overlook when we are overwhelmed by the largest dam in the world, China's majestic Pearl Tower, and the impressive Olympic structures in Beijing. While we are bombarded by media coverage of China's booming economy, there are millions of people ailing, many from injuries
suffered in the process of constructing these enormous political statements. It is painful to witness the products of hardship anywhere, and Katie is right...especially in the form of innocent children.
Jessica Shaw
Sleep In? NO WAY.
So I was pleasantly surprised this past Saturday evening when I stepped aboard the "Splendid China." When I first heard we were taking a 3 day boat trip through the Yangtze River, I pictured hundreds of people crammed on a fishing boat, sleeping amongst the shrimping nets. Therefore, you can imagine my delight when we boarded a MINI-CRUISE ship!
WAKE UP CALLS:
So the wake up calls on the ship were NOT optional. We were awoken every morning to a rather pleasant noise...around 6am (when our excursions did not leave until 8:15am). I don't know about you, but a 6am wake up call is not my idea of fun. Every morning the cruise director played a (rather peaceful) song for about a minute over the loud speaker. The first morning I thought someone was playing the flute in the hall. When I realized it was coming from the loud speaker under the bureau, I fumbled around with all the buttons in the room in an attempt to shut off the noise....Too bad the loud speaker had no volume or power button. The director must've assumed the music was not enough, so she decided to come on the speaker every 30 minutes after 6am to inform us of the day's events. Gee, I'm sure glad she took care of that before 7am. It wouldn't have been as bad if she didn't have to translate everything she said from Chinese to English. Oh well, I guess Chinese are not accustomed to sleeping in?
Don't get the wrong impression, aside from the wake up calls, I LOVED the mini-cruise. This boat trip was without a doubt my favorite part of the trip thus far. The scenery was incredible, the excursions were enjoyable, and the class got some quality bonding time in!
--A quality quote from our tour guide from the "ghost town" excursion: "I'm not really religious. I don't believe in Buddhism or Maoism, but I DO believe in tourism."
Kristen Krouchick
An Evolving View of China…
Since day one, we have been experiencing a world that is virtually unknown to us. As with many Americans, our view of China and its economy has been skewed primarily because we are worlds apart. Though China has become a fixture in the Wall Street Journal, the New York Times and most other US media sources, this country is not represented to its full extent. The amount of coverage regarding China certainly attests to its current rise in status, but there is simply too much to understand for articles to grasp. My classmates and I were essentially naïve about China’s recent development and advancement. The extent of our most American’s knowledge is simply that China is a developing country whose low-cost labor and massive population has allowed it to experience exceptional growth; however, we soon discovered that this is only the tip of the iceberg.
This trip has been an eye-opening experience. It has become extremely evident that our class has come a long way in understanding China. Our knowledge has been evolving tremendously and it is clear that with each lecture we are realizing the economic boom of the Chinese market. I discovered this especially during a class discussion of the book China, Inc. which took place on the last day of our cruise up the Yangtze River. Our talk brought up many interesting points regarding China’s and America’s changing roles in the world economy. We have become well versed in both the business and journalism sides of China.
The book I mentioned before is quite interesting. It captures much of what China is becoming, a dominant player in the world markets; however, nothing compares to experiencing this evolving country on your own. With a combination of China, Inc. and a first-hand look, we have become fully aware of China’s current and future position as a controller of the global economy. It is almost scary to witness this unprecedented growth that exists in a nation with so much additional potential. Whether we like it or not, China is and will continue to be at the forefront of the world’s focus, economically, environmentally, etc. No country can afford to ignore the unparalleled growth and opportunity found in China.
Yours truly,
Thomas Hubka
Through the haze
Having been into the interior of China, we got to experience brief slices of cities we'd never heard of before we came. Wuhan was an industrial town, lacking the glitz of Shanghai, the scenery of Hangzhou, but had a population larger than Los Angeles'. Chongqing, which we visited at the end of our boat trip, was compared in size to Rhode Island- and it'd be a useful metaphor, if you gave Rhode Island the heat of South Texas, 31 million people, and put it in the middle of the country. We recently arrived in Beijing, where it seems like more buildings are under construction than already built. Jackhammers are going outside our hotel now,
However, all of these cities share a pollution problem. It hasn't been mentioned already, but the haze hanging outside is something out of a Dickens novel. Our visibility is fractions of what it should be, exercising outside seems like the least healthy thing to do, and you can stare at the sun in the middle of the day. A former environmental activist says that China's intentions are in the right place when it comes to pollution, but it's not evidenced in its big cities.
-Taylor Woods
It felt like being dragged by a Geely car；A joint venture by Bryce and Katie
It was our final day on the majestic Splendid China, and various massages were 20% off. In desperate need to release toxins, Gua Sha was particularly appealing. So we, along with Sarah, decided to venture away from generic traditional massages and pay someone to scratch our backs with some kind of plastic tool.
We showed up 5 minutes early, feeling intense anticipation, and we were guided into a small room with three massage tables and two drawn back curtains. We urged them not to close the curtain until they motioned us to rip off our clothing above our waist. So we were seperated by a thin curtain, but the language barrier enabled us to converse.
Gua Sha felt like the edge of a comb being rubbed against your back, concentrated in various pressure points along our backs. We had a lot of oil on our backs and it didn't hurt, which was good because we were expecting marginal discomfort/ intense pain. The scratching of the comb-like tool was alternated with massaging.
So we thought all had gone well, until we got up and saw each other's backs. Our backs looked like our ankles had been tied to the back of a Geely car and we had been dragged for miles on our backs. You could see the shape of every single bone in our backs, which were by far the reddest parts. If we hadn't gone together, no one would have believed that it actually felt good, as we were routinely met by faces of disgust and pain whenever we lifted the backs of our shirts.
All in all, we would do it again. The point of gua sha is to lift the blood to the surface of the skin and open up the pores to release bad toxins in the body. Even though our open wounds prevented us from showering for a day, it was a wonderful experience and we recommend it to all.
Looking somewhat better but still roughly beaten,
Bryce A. Foster and Katie M. Simpson
Chinese Pearls
While on our relaxing cruise trip, there were different lessons each afternoon about different aspects of Chinese culture! One day there was a bartending lesson, one day was on Chinese art, and one day on how to determine real Chinese pearls. Chinese pearls are a little different style than the pearls we are used to in America. Instead of having a round shape they go for a more unique look with small imperfections in shape. They also have a variety of colors like white, coral, and purple.
According to this woman, here is how you determine whether or not a pearl is real:
1. You rub both a fake pearl and a real pearl against your teeth. A fake pearl should have a more smooth texture to it, while a real pearl has a rough texture. I kind of felt that this was not for real, but I did actually feel a difference!
2. Rub two fake and two real pearls together. The fake pearls will make no sound at all, while the real pearls will make a "sssh" sound.
We performed these tests on some fake pearls we had brought from the states and they seemed legitimate, however it was hard to tell when our boat was such a tourist trap! Even so, being in Beijing now, we can test out our pearl testing skills at the famous pearl markets!
~Amanda Kane
May 23, 2007
Backbreaking Labor
For four hours on the Yangtze River, I experienced something I will likely never experience again. On the second full day, there was an optional excursion to the Shennong Stream. I had no idea what I was getting myself into.
The group that decided to participate boarded a smaller boat for about an hour that took us to a smaller stream connected to the Yangtze River. From there, we disembarked and boarded a MUCH smaller, wooden boat that felt as if it would capsize or tip over if the weight were even minutely distributed unevenly. At one point, a heavy-set man stepped onto our small boat and actually fell, causing the vessel to rock violently.
There were several middle-aged men that were helping us onto the fragile ship and guiding us to our "sturdy" (sarcasm) benches. These men turned out to be our captains and rowers. Each was scantily clad and had legs the size of my upper arms with muscles and veins bulging. They wore tiny garments so that the water would not weigh them down.
After all of about 16-20 passengers boarded, we set out on a 90-minute round trip journey to a stream, up the stream, and back to the boat dock. Each rower possessed a long, wooden paddle that he would use to jerk the boat steadily along. This work appeared backbreaking, but after witnessing what was next, I had to re-evaluate this observation. When we reached the stream, the men jumped out of our small "canoe" and began harnessing themselves to the front using a long rap. After they were strapped in and secure, they began performing one of the most painful tasks I have ever seen. Four at a time, the men bent over, almost completely, as they bore the weight of the twenty passengers and the heavy boat and fought to haul us against a fierce current. Reflecting on it, the physics do not even make logical sense! The men, equipped with some sort of water sandal, struggled against the load as their muscles strained to the point that I thought they might explode.
The stream was narrow and enclosed on both sides by rocks on which they traversed as they pulled us along. I hurt inside as I watched them, and I wished so much that I was more knowledgeable in Chinese and that I could shout words of encouragement as they performed this grueling labor. I was mesmerized by the fact that their tiny, bony bodies could pull an object of this weight upstream! I found myself quite relieved when we made the loop and began traveling downstream again. I felt like we were on a white water rapid as we sped along, and I was glad that our rowers got a brief reprieve.
These men, also farmers, sometimes make two trips per day on these tourist boats, according to the woman who narrated our journey. The Chinese, I have found, will do anything to support their families, and that is a trait I deeply admire!
Sincerely,
Jessica Shaw
Our AMAZING Cruise
So, as our bus pulled up to the Yangtze River where we were supposed to board our boat that we would live on for the next 4 days, I was ecstatic to see a very nice looking 5 decker cruise ship, not the rickety old wood raft I imagined in my head. Yes, I admit my expectations were very low, but that only made the surprise that much better. The cruise was amazing!
Our first night on the boat, we met some very nice Australians who gave us pointers on where to go and how much to pay for things in Beijing. It was a family that has travelled to China several times, so their advice was well received. Hopefully we will get a chance to go to the Pearl and Silk Market they talked about!
Anyway, the cruise was truely amazing and one of the many highlights of this trip. It was extremely nice to have a place to sit and relax. I think we all needed a little time to ourselves to gather our thoughts and relect on our experiences that we have gone through so far. This trip has been truely amazing, as you can tell by all the blogs I'm sure, and the boat was a very important time to absorb all that. I just can't believe that we only have one week left.
I wish I could type more but a group of us are going to see Spiderman 3 in ENGLISH in 5 minutes so I must go. Don't worry I will let you know how it turns out. How bad can a $3 movie in China really be? We shall see.
For now
Melissa Ginder
Chinese Fashion Sense
The first thing I noticed when I observed women’s fashion in China was the popularity of cut-off tights. Just about every woman wears them! I’ve seen them in a variety of colors, but the most popular is black. Some even have glitter or sparkle patterns on them. Women wear them with everything from miniskirts, to extra-long shirts, dresses and even shorts. If I didn’t know any better, I would swear the trend started in China.
Now onto shoes. It is my observation that Chinese women almost never wear flats. They perpetually wear heels, and I mean perpetually. You would think they came out of the womb with heels on their feet! Whether they’re walking down the street, riding the subway or even driving a motorcycle, Chinese women can be found heels. On the rare occasion they don’t wear heels, they wear sneakers. Flip flops are about as rare as finding a foreigner in the country – you almost never see them!
As for the men, slacks are the number one pant of choice. I’ve seen some teenage men wear jeans, but I have never seen an adult man wear them. The same goes for sneakers. If ever a man is in slacks, he is guaranteed to be wearing dress shoes. If it weren’t for the women, you would think blue jeans didn’t exist in the country. The same goes for shorts – guys just don’t wear them! The only time I can remember seeing a guy’s legs was when we visited the sports university in Hangzhou.
Another rarity for men is the mustache. Now I’ve kept track of this, and I can honestly say that in the 4 weeks I’ve been here, I’ve only seen one man with a mustache. One! When I mentioned this to another girl in our group, she suggested that maybe Chinese men can’t grow facial hair... While that is definitely not the case, I wouldn’t be surprised if more people thought that to be true.
Alisha Laventure
‘09
May 18, 2007
Chinese Laundry!
Since leaving Shanghai, it has become very expensive to use the laundry services. In Shanghai, I only paid 15 yuan per load. My clothes came back to me on the same day, neatly folded in a plastic bag. The laundry services in Hangzhou and Wuhan are quite different. I'm assuming it is because we are staying in very nice hotels now. While we were in Hangzhou, I sent out about 4 days worth of laundry to be washed and it cost me 100 yuan (about $12). I later found out that if you gave the laundry service detergent, they would wash the clothes for you and hang them up to air dry for 10 yuan per load. I guess I missed out on that deal! When the service brought back my clothes, I understood why it was so expensive. All of my clothes came back neatly steamed and in little plastic covers to protect them. I was very impressed, but broke from paying the bill.
I have decided to wash my own clothes by hand to save money. I washed all of my underclothes by hand first to give it a test run. It worked and doesn't take that long. I like to use the sink because I can use the sides of it for scrubbing. The only hard part is getting most of the water out of the fabric. Since arriving in China, I have not seen any laundry mats and I don't believe that the average Chinese person can afford a washer machine or has enough space in their apartment for a washer machine. I've noticed many people just washing their clothes in basins and hanging them to dry on poles outside of their apartments. My roommate and I have clothes hanging all over our room to dry just like Chinese people. The only difference is that most Chinese prefer to hang their clothes outside!
-Cami Morrison
Katie, I Might Have A Problem…!
I really like to eat Oreos and I might be addicted. I know that Oreos are junk food and have no nutritional value, but I literally can’t help myself. I have eaten Oreos just about everyday since I’ve been in China. The cookies are usually consumed for breakfast or as a midnight snack. They keep me from going hungry and losing weight. Did I mention, that I occasionally go through withdrawals if I can’t eat them?
It has come to a point now where I think my obsession or addiction to Oreos has gotten out of hand! It is now customary for certain members of the group to tell me when they find Oreos in stores. No one is surprised to find me eating Oreos at 9:00 a.m. anymore. And, no one questioned when I bought two large packs of Oreos in the grocery store in Wuhan to stock up for our three-day boat ride on the Yangtze River. However, my roommate caught me doing something last night that scares me. I don’t remember doing it but I believe it could have happened. I remember eating Oreos before I fell asleep and leaving them on the nightstand. Christina, my roommate, said she was awakened last night by the sound of cookie paper. Somehow I ate an Oreo in my sleep last night and didn’t even wake up. I think I’m in serious need of an intervention, but not until after I leave China. By the way, I’m eating Oreos in bed while I’m writing this blog.
-My name is Cami Morrison and I am addicted to Oreos.
P.S. To my friends and family: No need to worry about my addiction to Oreos. The first step to fighting addiction is admitting you have a problem!
Today's Concert at the Hubei Provincial Museum
I Like Shopping in China
And here's why: if they don't have your size, they can have it in a few minutes. Well, as long as you aren't too tall. I was shopping tonight with a group and two of us wanted the same dress in the same size. The shop only had one. However, through frantic hand motions and a lot laughing/frustration the girls working there finally communicated that if we would wait about five minutes, they could have another one. We said, "OK." It was amazing. They made one phone call and within a few minutes, the dress had arrived. The transaction was slightly sketchy ... the saleperson walked out to the busy street where someone drove by, slowing down as he handed the dress off to her. She walked back in and sold it to me. I was impressed with the employees' dedication and willingness to go the extra step. And I'm glad to have another outfit as doing laundry on this boat trip (we board tomorrow) is unlikely!
Christina Dixon
I'll Take All Of This... To Go
Recently, with the help of the CET tour group, we've been very well-provided for when it comes to food (no worries, we'll have plenty of meat on our bones when we return to the states). Breakfast at the hotel, lunch between tour stops, and dinner arrangements already made - our days don't require too much planning. However, yesterday we were sent off to scrounge around the streets of Wuhan for dinner, a town in which we've only familiarized ourselves with the internet cafe and Fu Mart.
While some headed toward KFC, a few of us still craved Chinese food, which is surprising as we enter week four of our journey. Mr. Xie's Restaurant fit our requirements for a suitable eating establishment: a picture menu with some English. Though we quickly realized our lungs were at risk because of the fog of cigarette smoke hovering over our heads, we were only concerned with the hunger pains in our stomachs.
After some confusion during the process of ordering (the usual), we ended up splitting twelve plates of food between the seven of us, many of the dishes were covered in sweet and sour sauce (who knows whether it was chicken, pork or fish beneath all that orange sauce). We continued spinning the "lazy susan" but were still left with an outstanding amount of food. Pen Pen told us that traditionally you should always leave a little food on your plate or on the table so that your host "saves face", proving that he has the money to provide his guests with a full meal. However, with China's rapid population growth, Pen Pen explained that it is now acceptable to take your leftovers with you and some restaurants will even give discounts if you box it up. We decided to have all of our sweet and sour goodness wrapped up because if we were each going to pay a whole $7 for our meal then we were going to savor it for days.
I shouldn't be hungry again for days... or hours,
Sarah McCarville
Stalker!
Today started off as any other day – I was walking down the street with Jessica and Maggie in search of some good shopping. We went into a few stores, looked around, and were just having a grand ol’ time. After about 15 minutes, I saw this shoe store and walked in hoping they had my size – I should’ve known better with my 9.5-sized pair of feet… Anyway, as I was measuring an obviously too-small shoe to my bare foot, I ask Maggie if she likes them and she says in my ear, “I dunno, maybe your stalker will like them.”
I say, “What! What stalker?”
“That guy in the blue shirt over there,” she says. “He’s been following us for the past five minutes.” I look over and see a guy in a navy blue button-up, dark shorts, and some sort of wavy-mullet hairdo. He’s looking right at Maggie and me. Maggie tells Jess, and after I find out the store only carries the shoe I’m looking for in a size 7 (no surprise), we walk out. As we continued our shopping, this guy followed us for at least 400 feet. We couldn’t believe it! We went into several stores all the while, and he would actually wait for us outside of them! At one point, we had to cross the street by climbing several stairs that connected to a bridge. He followed, climbing the stairs on the other side. When we walked on the sidewalk, he walked on the opposite side of the street maintaining a fair distance slightly behind.
As we were being followed, the three of us found a policeman standing by a light post. I told the girls that I was going to tell him (as best as I could with hand gestures) that some stranger was following us. Maggie discouraged me, arguing that it was his right to walk in the street. I think she was trying to avoid a scene. Jessica said that if he didn’t stop soon, she would confront him. I told her to let me know when she was ready to do so, because I would be right there behind her.
After this conversation, Jessica marches up to him and asks in a cool, calm voice, “Why are you stalking us?” He feigns confusion and the both of us say,” You’ve been following us! Why!” He is surprised that we have actually confronted him. The man shrugs his shoulders with his palms up, mumbling something we don’t understand. Finally, Jessica says in a stern voice, “Please stop following us,” and we walked into the shop to our left. We stayed in the shop for about five minutes and saw our stalker on the other side of the street. When we left, we started walking in the opposite direction to go back to the hotel. When we turned around, we saw our stalker standing in spot we left him, staring at us. The three of continued to check our backs until me made it back to our rooms.
As we walked home, Maggie pointed out that our stalker could have been following us longer than we had realized. Had she not pointed him out, I can’t even say that I would have noticed him! For all the parents reading this blog, I urge you NOT to worry. When all is said and done, I think he was harmless. Had he tried anything, he wouldn’t have stood a chance. The street was very crowded and he was maybe the same height as Jess (5’4”) - Maggie and I had him by at least six inches combined. We could have definitely taken him ;-)
Alisha Laventure
'09
China - Incomplete
The one bad thing about a trip like this is that you can’t really make friends with anyone. Well, maybe you could do that with the people you travel with, unless you get completely sick of them and don’t even want to see them ever again after the end of the trip. Making friends with Chinese in China, however, is close to impossible.
It takes two meetings to consider someone a friend. The first time we met the chef at the Hibachi restaurant he was shy and we were awkward. The second time we could already have fun together the way classmates in 3rd grade do: fooling around with our mutual friends. (Mainly teaching each other interesting phrases in our languages and using what we’ve learnt on the native speakers around;0) I saw him accidentally a third time the day before we left. We hugged for a bitter goodbye. After two meeting I was already sad for not having the ability to explore this friendship.
Yesterday we met with students of the Wuhan Institute for Physical Education. The conversations we had with those Chinese were so real, so sincere. Both sides were intrigued and excited to communicate with someone seemingly so different. Are we really that different? We would never find out because we had to leave the campus and soon we will leave the city. Another fascinating meeting, another group of cool people, another lack of possibility for friendships . . .
We have settled for a trade-off: see a lot of China in five weeks, meet the Chinese only briefly and superficially. Those short-lived moments of interaction at least give us a tinny glimpse at the essence of the Chinese people. I know they are very friendly and very intelligent, always interested in learning and in sharing knowledge. But most importantly, as the trip to Henglu showed us, they are loving. Meeting the village kids was the interaction that seemed most unreal but that touched us the deepest.
Well, I guess five weeks were not meant to provide all the experiences of China. Maybe they are just a tease, a preview of what it is and what it could be. One thing is for sure, though: it is so worth it to come back, not just for the economy, for the people!
Margarita Antonova
China - Incomplete
The one bad thing about a trip like this is that you can’t really make friends with anyone. Well, maybe you could do that with the people you travel with, unless you get completely sick of them and don’t even want to see them ever again after the end of the trip. Making friends with Chinese in China, however, is close to impossible.
It takes two meetings to consider someone a friend. The first time we met the chef at the Hibachi restaurant he was shy and we were awkward. The second time we could already have fun together the way classmates in 3rd grade do: fooling around with our mutual friends. (Mainly teaching each other interesting phrases in our languages and using what we’ve learnt on the native speakers around;0) I saw him accidentally a third time the day before we left. We hugged for a bitter goodbye. After two meeting I was already sad for not having the ability to explore this friendship.
Yesterday we met with students of the Wuhan Institute for Physical Education. The conversations we had with those Chinese were so real, so sincere. Both sides were intrigued and excited to communicate with someone seemingly so different. Are we really that different? We would never find out because we had to leave the campus and soon we will leave the city. Another fascinating meeting, another group of cool people, another lack of possibility for friendships . . .
We have settled for a trade-off: see a lot of China in five weeks, meet the Chinese only briefly and superficially. Those short-lived moments of interaction at least give us a tinny glimpse at the essence of the Chinese people. I know they are very friendly and very intelligent, always interested in learning and in sharing knowledge. But most importantly, as the trip to Henglu showed us, they are loving. Meeting the village kids was the interaction that seemed most unreal but that touched us the deepest.
Well, I guess five weeks were not meant to provide all the experiences of China. Maybe they are just a tease, a preview of what it is and what it could be. One thing is for sure, though: it is so worth it to come back, not just for the economy, for the people!
Margarita Antonova
Lost in Wuhan
So I decided to go out and explore the streets of Wuhan on my own last night. I thought I would just do some wandering, a little window shopping, find some street vendor food and then head back to the hotel. Looking back, experiences like these make me realize how easy it is to forget I'm in China.
I started out about 7:00 PM and headed down the main pedestrian walkway. I made my way all the way to one end, not particularly interested in any of the expensive (remember that's a relative term) looking stores and using the power of my blaring iPod to bypass the various people trying to get me to follow them to look at shirts, watches, and the like. So far the evening was shaping up to be a bust.
So, to keep things interesting, I started strolling through the twisted, dark back alleys running parallel to the main street. I picked up some delicious meat-on-a-stick, one of my favorite foods here in China. It appeared to be octopus, juding by the tenticle sticking off the end of the stick, although I can't be sure. I've found it best not to think about such things. Then I came upon several narrow alleys crammed with rivers of people packed shoulder to shoulder moving through all of these little white booths packed with all kinds of cheap jewelry, underwear, etc...
I love these, so I found myself walking through many of them and ambling for several hours before I realized I had gotten completely lost. I started to walk back in what I hoped would be the direction of the main road, but I had been walking several hours and couldn't be sure at all. Nothing seemed familiar. Actually, the real problem was it all seemed familiar. All of the characters basically look the same, and there were plenty of bright neon signs stretching in all directions. It's in times like these one realizes how often we take communication for granted. With no ability to read any signs or to communicate with anyone around me, I stopped in a local coffee shop to recharge.
As I sat drinking my coffee I realized that I was fine, because I had the little card from the hotel with the address and directions in Chinese. All I had to do was give it to a cab driver and I'd be home free. Thankfully, I knew right where it was. The card was sitting safely on the table beside my bed at the hotel.
Whoops.
On my way out of the coffee bar I tried the last bit of hope I had. I could kind of remember what Pen Pen called the pedestrian walkway in Chinese, and I knew how to ask "Where is" so I tried out my best Chinese on the waitress standing outside the restaurant. She answered in an incomprehensible string of words. After a few mintues of me repeating myself and then making confused faces at her responses, though, it seemed she understood where I wanted to go and motioned in a particular direction. I set out in that way, and after about a mile or so found myself back on the main walkway and able to find the hotel. Anti-climactic I suppose, but a great experience none-the-less.
-Alex Weber
W&L Students Leaving A Mark in Henglu
Before coming to Henglu we were warned that we should come to the town bearing gifts to show our thanks for their hospitality. After spending two days with our host families, we had minimal speaking with the older family members but they really took care of us! We had giant meals including a dumpling eating competition. Matt Danner dominated by eating what we think was close to 40 dumplings! Caroline was also a strong competitor with 20 dumplings, a definite leader of the girls! Collectively we ate close to 300 dumplings!
Anyway, in addition to the food, the family led us all around their town and took us to see their schools. The kids were so cute because there was a curiosity over the Americans they saw standing in front of them. They were either very shy and kept at a distance or jumped right in and held our hands! For example, when touring the town one girl made sure to hold her umbrella over my head to make sure I was not getting wet from the rain! Many of us got to know some of the kids very well!
One girl, Jenny, was the leader of the kids and she also spoke the most English. She organized a block party as our entertainment for the final night (see Caroline's blog entry). After the block party, everyone just hung out with the kids. They were very cute and gave us their pictures and wrote out their names for us. Kristen and I gave Jenny, Sarah, and Kathleen W&L t-shirts. They got so excited! We taught them how to say the name of our school, and we told them how they should come to school at W&L. It was adorable because all of them responded that they would come to W&L. Other people gave gifts from their hometowns or just small gifts like key chains or sunglasses.
All of the gifts were a big hit and the kids all said how they were going to miss us! It was sad to leave, but the town of Henglu now has kids running around in W&L stuff!
~Amanda Kane
Henglu Block Party
So even though our homestay in Henglu was almost a week ago, I feel it is important to mention some specifics of the huge party we had on the last night.
Some of the children from the town had prepared a few performances on the final night (singing, dancing, magic tricks etc). So while a few of us were walking off all the dumplings from our dumpling eating contest that night, we tried to think of something to perform. Cami, Katie, and I finally came up with a little song/dance routine to the classic song "My Girl" ... We crept into one of the rooms in the house and rehearsed in the dark so that no one could get a sneak peek of our performance/steal our dance moves.
"My Girl" was a huge hit (obviously) and we were told by numerous villagers that we should probably be on American Idol (not surprising). After listening to a few songs from the locals, we thought up a couple more skits. Ryan won the hearts of the girls with his "awesome" disappearing coin trick. Bryce showed off his muscles with his signature "grab the pole and lift myself up move" that can be seen in one of the pictures on the blog.
Some of the local girls wanted Katie and I to teach them some dance moves because our skills were already renowned in Henglu. Katie and I taught them some classy moves including "the sprinkler" and the "shopping cart" ... they were a pretty big hit.
The finale to the block party was the huge bunny hop line. The Chinese have a similar dance to the American bunny hop ... I'm hoping that someone got a video of a long line of Americans and Chinese laughing their heads off and jumping around.
Anyway, a good time was had by all at the Henglu Block Party.
P.S. On another note, today for lunch I ate the stomach lining of a pig (obviously didn't know this while I was eating it). This definitely trumps the time we tried cow tongue (the cow tongue was by choice).
Kind of grossed out,
Caroline Davis
Holes in the ground
After being in China for over 3 weeks, I am beginning to accustom myself to their lovely toilets. As I'm sure you all know, Chinese toilets are indeed holes in the ground.
A few downsides to Chinese toilets:
-In the States, people often read newspapers or magazines while going to the bathroom. In China, it would be incredibly uncomfortable to read the paper while having to maintain a steady squat.
-There is rarely toilet paper, so you either have to shake it or bring your own toilet paper. You would think the money saved on toilet paper would go to providing nicer bathrooms, but rarely, and i mean very rarely, is that the case.
-There are no handicap accessible squatters. It would be extremely difficult to maneuver a wheelchair through the bathrooms, especially since there are often steps involved to get to the toilet level.
A few upsides:
-Since the toilet is a squatter, you do not have to worry about the often-dreaded, "toilet seat touch." There will definitely be no contact with a toilet, unless you squat too far down and fall over, which could hypothetically happen.
-You can save space in your home by having the toilet act as a drain for the shower. I'm sure this has been thought of and utilized. I've noticed that Chinese are very efficient in terms of space.
-The squatters are very efficient. You go in and out within a matter of seconds (that is, unless you drink a gallon of water, then it's on your account).
Overall, I am enjoying the toilet experience. For those really unable to overcome the difference, some bathrooms do indeed offer a few Western-syle toilets amid the squatters. However, personally, I actually like the Chinese toilets better than American!
Kristen Krouchick
Shampoo Troubles
Funny Story from Yesterday.
Yesterday a few of us went to the Fu-Mart to pick up some snacks and such. I had run out of shampoo and conditioner, so I headed upstairs to the beauty section. Of course when I got there all the bottles only had Chinese characters, but I noticed Herbal Essence was on the shelf. Noticing it looked very similar to home I bought one clear bottle (shampoo) and one solid bottle (what I thought was conditioner). To my surprise when I got back to our hotel, they both were shampoo. I ran into Katie in the hallway and she said that she had accidentally bought two conditioners, so we traded. I got back into the shower just to find out that yet again...it was shampoo. After three shampoos and no conditions, I got out of the shower quite frustrated. Oh well....Sometimes you just have to roll with the punches here in China.
Melissa Ginder
WIPE
Yesterday we visited the Wuhan Institute for Physical Education, affectionately known as WIPE. It's a huge school, as we know from our seemingly endless walking tour of campus. We saw students practicing tae kwon do, boxing, basketball. We entered a small building that was filled with ping pong tables and echoing the sound of the little plastic ball bouncing off the plastic of the table. Pen Pen pointed out the school's number one contender, a boy who we had already spotted because he had washboard abs that we didn't know you could get from ping pong. (On a side note, we're in an internet cafe and two young Chinese boys just stood over Caroline's shoulder awkwardly staring at the email she was writing.) After our walking tour, we were able to watch a gymnastics practice. The childen practicing were about 7 years old. They were so tiny but already had serious muscles and were doing impressive moves. It's not surprising that they are so good when you learn that they wake up daily at 5am and practice all day everyday under the harsh rule of super intense coaches. The coaches would drag them by the arm and contort their tiny bodies into place. So look out for the Chinese gymnasts in the 2012 Olympics. So why do students go to this school? Well, after the gymnasts, we got to speak with students at the school. We spoke with a girl named Kathy who explained how a lot of the students wind up at WIPE: she was hoping to go to school in Beijing, but she didn't perform well enough on the entrance exam and got stuck in Wuhan.
On a final note, last night Cami ate an Oreo in her sleep. No one's surprised.
Katie Simpson
Ancient Chinese Music
Today, Friday, May 18, 2007, our group took a trip to the Hubei Provincial Museum in the city of Wuhan. We learned about the State of Zeng, a small kingdom located by the Yangtze River during the Zhou dynasty (1100-221 BCE). The museum consisted primarily of artifacts dating back 2400 years which had been discovered in a large tomb some time ago. The items displayed included ancient weapons, armor, pots, crates, art, statues, and last but not least, musical pieces from the era. Though the historical significance made the tour well worth the trip, it was the concert concluding the visit that made the time exquisite.
The museum had a very nice concert hall where we were fortunate enough to see the "Chinese Bells Performance." The musician group used a 65-piece bell set and a 32-piece chime stone set which were replicas of the ancient pieces on display. The bell set in particular was quite impressive. The grand musical structure spanned approximately 12 yards with two levels of bells. The bells varied, ranging from the size of a volleyball to the size of a standard chair. The stone chime set was very nice as well, having varying sizes of stones on two levels. Each level was suspended from four-foot dragon-like statues on either side. The detail of the bell and chime sets were particularly amazing. Not only are they musical instruments, they are pieces of art. These two instruments were also accompanied with several traditional pieces including a se zither, panpipe, wind instrument, drum, flute and zheng. This group reproduced the palace grandeur of 2400 years ago by presenting us with a performance of ancient Chinese music.
It was a beautiful session of music that included ancient and traditional ensembles. Some portions of the performance were solos of individual instruments, as well as an ensemble using only the bell and chime set. They also gave us a taste of overseas music they perform, including the "Ode to Joy." It was quite the experience to cap off a nice day at the museum. I was looking forward to providing pictures and maybe a video of the performance, however, my camera's battery wasn't up to the task. I am hoping one of my classmates will be posting some visual aid for all to enjoy.
Yours truly,
Thomas Hubka
Lost in translation Part II: Deaf to Chinese
Now, I’m sure someone has already mentioned how several signs in China make absolutely no sense in English. While I understand the complexity of translating Chinese directly to English, some of the translations are simply inexcusable. After spending about three weeks here, I’ve come to accept them and even smile when I see them. Aside from signs however, the problem of translation, or what I like to call “information exchange” for the sake of this blog, is highly prevalent among interpreters. Let me outline three different scenarios:
1. The Chinese professor who speaks for long blocks of time that the Chinese interpreter has a hard time remembering the first half of the dissertation spoken by the professor. The interpreter is thus flustered and has hard time relaying all the information back to the students.
2. The Chinese professor who knows and speaks English fairly well. He appears intelligible, using fancy and complex English words, but you wonder if he really knows the meaning behind his words because he fails to give direct responses to questions students, ask pertaining to his lecture.
3. The Chinese Professor who knows English very well, but you are completely thrown off by her thick Chinese accent, making it difficult to absorb the information she speaks of.
And finally, (Now this is my personal favorite)
4. The American who moved to China, learned to speak Chinese fluently, but has forgotten so much English that he relies on the Chinese-American, who is fluent in both languages (thank God) to interpret English words he has forgotten…
Let’s call the American referred to in scenario 3 “Greg.” Greg moved to China 12 years ago with his wife and has since raised two children here. He was called upon to tour three Chinese corporations with us to explain how they operate in China, and occasionally interpret information given by the manager or representative present. While I appreciate the good intentions of Greg, his interpretations were, by far, the most frustrating to listen to.
Greg would do the interpreting thing, but there were times where he forgot the English translation and finally blurt out “I don’t remember the word he is using.” Then comes Pen Pen to the rescue, who gives the English translation, followed by Greg saying, “Yeah, that’s right, that’s what he said…” Had it not been for Pen Pen, our guide person for China, some things would have remained lost in translations forever.
I studied the code of ethics of interpreting in high school when I learned American Sign Language. The most important rule of them all was to interpret only what the speaker says to the audience. Greg hard a hard time with this one. After a speaker said a phrase, Greg would turn to him and question his statement without translating what he had just said to the class. There were times when the two of them had a full conversation in Chinese, laughing even, possibly throwing jokes around for all we knew, while the entire class sat around not understanding a word, except maybe a random number because that was our biggest accomplishment in our Chinese lessons. I hated that. I can’t tell you how many times I wanted to stand up and say “Hellooo, hi! Yea, can you translate that because we don’t understand!” Then after what turned out to be a 5 minute conversation only translated to about 30 seconds of interpretation by Greg – not cool! My sign language teacher always said how easy it was for a Deaf member in a family to feel left out in these types of situations. A joke is made, the whole family laughs, the Deaf person asks what was said, but family members are too preoccupied with the conversation at hand to translate and say “they’ll explain later.” In the long run, the joke never gets explained and the deaf person misses out on a chance to connect with the rest of the family. While I have perfect hearing, not knowing Chinese sometimes feel like I am deaf. The joke may not have been significant, but it would have been nice to understand the public conversation that was taking place. I would like to understand the conversation that took place that allowed Greg to come to the understanding that he did because it’s very possible that I would’ve had a different understanding based on the speaker’s explanation. Even outside of the classroom, it would be nice to know what the Chinese are saying when laugh with each other after having tried to order from a menu, buy something from the store or even try to speak Chinese to them. After all is said and done, I wonder if I’ll ever be “found” in translation...
Alisha Laventure
'09
May 17, 2007
Starting to Feel Chinese
Our first real Western style breakfast occurred today. I wasn't there for too long so I couldn't enjoy all of it. However, it had eggs, orange juice, bacon, toast, etc. It also had a fork and a knife! I was very surprised. However, it didn't really spark my interest that much. I immediately looked to see where the chopsticks were. I decided to pick up the fork to see how it felt after not using one for three weeks, and it felt strange to say the least. I put it down and grabbed my chopsticks. Once I felt that recognizable feeling, I felt relieved.
In America, when I sneeze or when someone else sneezes, I involuntarily say "excuse me" or "bless you". However, as we have learned, Chinese don't say anything along the lines of that. Because I have tried to submerge myself into the culture, I have become accustomed to their way. I don't expect anyone to say "bless you", although some of us still do, nor do I say "bless you" to anyone else. It is not out of lack of caring at all. It has also made me think about the reason we say it at all. It is just something we say without even thinking about it.
Another thing I have been practicing is getting to the front of the line in whatever means possible. If you try to be patient and stand behind someone leaving any room around you, someone will step right by you. You must get to the front of the line if you don't want to stand in line forever. If that means standing next to someone closer to the front than that is what you should do.
-Fu Lai Si
(for the Americans, Bryce Foster)
Watch What You Say
Watch what you say because you never know who might be listening. Very quickly into our stay most of us discovered that not too many Chinese people understand English, and some of us have become very used to saying whatever we want in front of who ever we want, whether it be some obscene comments, making fun of how terrible the taxi driver drives, or making fun of some girl's outfit. But Sarah and I found that we might be surprised to find more people than we think understand English. We've always been told from the beginning that the Chinese will talk about us right in front of us assuming the same, that we don't understand Chinese. So when Sarah and I stepped into an elevator in our hotel in Hangzhou a woman with her younger daughter looked both of us up and down. Naturally Sarah says, "Do you think they're talking about us?" and quickly a little Chinese voice (in English) responded, "No! No! No! We we're not talking about you," completely surprising the two of us. Apparently the girl was a student at the University next door and spoke English very well, could have fooled me. Although feeling a little embarrassed, we had a short conversation, exchanging the usual such as hometowns and age, and her English was very good for having never stepped a foot outside of China. So that just goes to show you, watch what you say while you're in China. Anybody could be listening.
Zai Jian,
Matt Danner
Olympics 2008, I'm Betting on China
We visited the Wuhan Institute of Physical Education this afternoon and after watching a few rounds of unimpressive tennis I had decided that this institute was not living up to its prestigous athletic title; however, all of the students walking around campus did seem to be appropriately dressed, many sporting a Tracy McGrady jersey.
My opinion of W.I.P.E. certainly changed when we entered the ping pong hall where the room was partitioned into areas for each table and you definitely didn't want to cross those boundaries because these kids were not going to slow down their play for anything, anyone, or any natural disaster. After standing in the doorway in awe for a number of minutes, Pen Pen had to drag our mesmerized bodies away.
It seems that every four years we turn on the TV to discover that the Olympic athletes are getting younger and younger (which therefore gives me less and less of a chance to jump into that realm of glory). Today we saw a number of little girls and boys decked out in their leotards practicing floor routines, pommel horse rotations, tumbling and balance beam maneuvers. This is no ordinary afterschool activity for these little six and seven year olds - I saw no smiles unless they were the ones plastered on their faces as they finished their routine. A few of us were tempted to "pull an Angelina Jolie" and steal them away from their instructors who often times grabbed the tiny bodies, folding them into the appropriate position and then pushing them back in line. The far wall of the gymnasium had the Olympic rings placed next to the Chinese flag, and I guess this level of dedication at this young of an age is what it takes.
Olympic dreams faded,
Sarah McCarville
I'm Leaving on a Jet Plane...
Yesterday we took our first domestic flight in China to Wuhan. But it was nothing like flying back home.
On our first airport adventure, Sarah and I went in search of coffee... our expectations to find a Starbucks were not very high, but we thought that at least there must be a coffee shop of some sort in the airport. In the distance, there it was: "Coffee Shop" ... Unfortunately, each coffee drink was 68 yuan or more! (Which is equivalent to almost 10 american dollars). Outrageous right? We ending up finding some coffee worth about 50 yuan so we gave into our caffeine cravings and got some.
Next we headed to the snack shop to see what goodies we could find. As soon as I walked in, one of the staff members presented me with a 20 inch by 20 inch box of chocolates. Chocolates, she said. "Do you like chocolate?" I could only laugh and walk away. I like chocolate but not THAT much. When I turn around to find Sarah, I see her standing there with a giant slab of meat. Slab of meat? Yes. A slab of meat. Approximately the length of your forearm. She had also been handed an item when she walked into the store. I wasn't that hungry for a lifetime supply of chocolates and Sarah wasn't really feeling the meat slab, so we moved on.
But the coffee situation and meat slab weren't the only airport shockers. At home the rules of the airport have been drilled into our heads since 9/11: no shoes through the metal detector, no jackets on, only two or three 3 oz. bottles of liquid allowed (and they must be in a plastic bag), and no bottles of water, to name a few. Here in China, I kept my shoes on. I kept my jacket on. I had probably 6 various bottles/holders of liquid loose in my bag. I had an open bottle of water in my hand. Despite all of this, I was waved through the checkpoint. No alarms went off. No security guards rushed in to pat me down. I was shocked by how easy it was.
China is constantly surprising me and I'm sure will continue to do so.
Also, big thanks to Ryan for the embarrassing video of us singing on the bus.
The next American Idol,
Caroline Davis
Always Coca-Cola!
Today we visited the Coke Factory in Wuhan. The tour started with a video about when the Coke company started and how it has influenced people in China. The movie was fun because they served us free samples, and we played a trivia game where we could win prizes! What was interesting about the movie was that it was in English, but the narrator was not a native English speaker. I kind of assumed that maybe since Coke was an American company, that the narrator would of been American. The movie ended up being a little hard to understand!
Afterwards we toured the area where Coke products are made and bottled. They said that there are three main ingredients to the soda: the sugar, a concentrate, and a "secret ingredient." Supposedly this secret ingredient is only known to three people in the entire world! I really enjoyed watching the bottling process because it ran on gigantic gears that moved the bottles through cleaning, filling, and capping processes. The gears were fast and efficient, and could handle large capacities at a time. The machines produce around 260 plastic bottles of the finished product per minute! Pretty amazing! In terms of glass bottles, they are actually cheaper in China because they are recycled and go through a sterilization process so that they can be re-used.
Another interesting fact was that this factory contained machines that were made in Atlanta, Georgia, but none of the products are exported out of this province! So all of the finished products we saw were only for this region of China!
We then raided the company store and bought some Chinese Coca-Cole memorabilia. I purchased a Sprite t-shirt, with tons of Chinese characters that I am totally psyched about!
The Coke plant is just one part of our busy schedule, but it was definately fascinating!
~Amanda Kane
May 16, 2007
Unplugged in Henglu
We were without an Internet connection Henglu, thus our brief hiatus from blog posts. But an Internet connection wasn't the only plug we were lacking.
Our host families in Henglu had splendid multi-story houses, built within about the last two years. Signs of fresh construction lingered all around the house: stickers left on fixtures and windows that have yet to receive screens.
However, one small detail continues to bother me: each bedroom had exactly one electrical outlet. Not a pair -- just one. I'm not trying to gripe that I couldn't plug in all my gadgets. Rather, I'm astounded that a household in the 21st century can live comfortably with just one outlet per room. (Yes, cheap power strips are everywhere in China, but are not the safest option, especially once you start daisy-chaining many together.)
Assuming that one outlet suits them fine, I wonder how long that will last? Even in the family's living room, we saw a medium sized TV, a DVD player, and a karaoke machine, all of which can be power gluttons in their own right.
Typical building codes in America for new constructions require outlets once every six feet. China apparently doesn't have a parallel code, or at least one as stringent.
Why did the builders not plan for growing power use? Perhaps I am letting my Western materialism show its ugliest here, but I can only imagine a world that will include more and more power hungry devices as the years progress, even in remote Henglu. If China is the next big market for consumer goods, where will they plug them in?
Alex Kraus
Nationalism on the Dance Floor!
I ventured into another hip-hop spot in Shanghai. Our entire group (minus the professors) went. This club was called Club Bon Bon and it was awesome. The cover charge was 50 yuan for ladies and 88 for men with an open bar. This place was really upscale and had a very sheik nightclub atmosphere similar to NYC. First of all, the doorman had to be about 7 ft. tall. The man was literally the same height as the doorframe. In order to enter, you had to buy a ticket from the box office where you could also check your coat. All of this is in the lobby of a building; you still have not entered the actual nightclub yet. After you get your tickets you go through security, but they don’t search you (very different from nightclubs in America). There were two guys working the door that night; one took your ticket and the other stamped your arm for proof of payment. They hand you back half of your ticket stub and you enter the club.
The entrance is awesome! You walk up a staircase lined with mirrors; I posed on every step. The club is two floors with lounge like tables everywhere for people to sit and special V.I.P. areas for the people who really want to splurge. The bathrooms were granite from top to bottom. You walk into a common area where men and women get their hands washed by a bathroom worker and receive a piece of gum. On your left is the men’s area and on your right the women. An automatic sliding granite door provides a privacy barrier between the two. I definitely think these type of bathrooms should be standard in America. The most important part of the club is the dance floor. The dance floor has a stage and a very large DJ stand where only girls are allowed to dance.
The DJ (a very buff man from Greensboro, NC) announced a dance contest and chose contestants from the crowd. Another girl and I from W & L entered just for fun. We went on stage to battle two Chinese girls. First we danced and then the Chinese girls danced. Lets just say we should have won. I don’t feel the need to describe how I danced because for those of you who know me, you can picture it. The rest of the people reading this blog can just make up your own dance scene. The two Chinese girls were awful! They mimicked everything we did except they were off beat and just looked like they were having convulsions on each other. The crowd was screaming but I couldn’t figure out why. If we were back in the States, they would have been booed off stage! We were totally robbed by a crowd exerting nationalistic zeal. Even the DJ agreed that we had won but he pointed out that neither one of us were Asian. I had to laugh!
-Cami Morrison
DJ Unk & Borat in Shanghai!
Yeah… you read the title correctly! (For those of you still confused, D.J. Unk is the man responsible for the hit hip-hop song “Walk It Out”)
Since arriving in Shanghai I have wanted to ride a moped and on Thursday, my wish came true. While walking with our class and professors to our farewell dinner, I heard D.J. Unk blasting through speakers. I spotted where the music was coming from and was surprised to see it was a moped. Now, I am not talking about your ordinary moped that you see in the streets of Shanghai. It was bright, shiny, new, and had a sound system!
The moped was cobalt blue with a chrome exhaust pipe on the right side. I know the exhaust was on the right side because every five seconds I checked to make sure my leg was not getting too close to it. I asked the guy for a ride and he took me on a very fast but short trip up the street. Another girl in the group hopped on with his brother. As we sped along the street he tried to communicate with me in Chinese. After realizing that I had no idea what he was saying he quickly switched to English. He told me that his English was very limited, but he liked rap music. He tried to use some slang terms but I had no idea what he was talking about so he just went back to basic sentence structure. I think he may have been trying to use different phrases together in the wrong context. I found out that he was from Kazakhstan. I immediately said “like Borat!” He laughed and told me his name, Baha. Baha had been in Shanghai for 8 months studying at East China Normal University. I told him I was from America and was studying business in China. He has never been to America before and wants to go live in Canada when he graduates. We circled back so I could join the rest of my classmates for our farewell dinner and took pictures with his moped.
I honestly left that situation thinking I would never see him again. However, to my surprise as we were loading the bus to leave Shanghai the next day I saw him pull up on his moped again. I ran out of the lobby and he rode me around campus. This time he followed all of the Shanghai driving rules for mopeds. He weaved in and out between people, didn’t slow down for speed bumps, and constantly honked his horn. I enjoyed every minute of it. It was a great ending to Shanghai!
-Cami Morrison
P.S. If you would like to see the video with sound please refer to "Pimp My Scooter" by Ryan MacPhee. That is me on the scooter!
One Big Happy Family
An example of our big happy family right here...three pairs of shared ipods and headphones, each song being performed with increible grace and talent in karaoke fashion.
Almost three weeks ago, twenty members of the Washington and Lee community stepped foot onto a plane heading to Shanghai, China with no real expectations except that this was going to be a spring term they would never forget. The group started out more or less as total strangers, except the occasional fraternity brother, sorority sister, or teammate. Being flung into such a foreign environment, the group was forced to unite, relying on one another for information, warnings, and the sound of an English voice when needed. The result has been magical. I think back to the first few meetings back on campus and can remember scanning the room for a recognizable face…previous class, party, anything…but I had nothing. Now, after three cities, one mountain village, various tours and lectures, and endless dining experiences, I can sense the bonds that have been formed. Our group has learned to specialize; some are navigation experts, others are negotiation gurus, and still others I look to every time I am handed a menu. A synergy has been born, and I am sure it will only get stronger as we proceed into the second half of our stay in China. We came to China as strangers and have already become great friends. By the time we head back for good ol’ Lexington, we will do so as a family...one of which I am glad to be a part.
Sincerely,
Ryan MacPhee
A few of my favorite things
It astonishes me how many things we have had to adjust to in this country. Time seems to fly, so I do not often have time to sit and ponder the cultural phenomena that we have been subjected and forced to adapt to. On the plane today, I started making a list in my journal of all the things I want to do when I get back to America, and along with making me a smidge homesick, it also was an abrupt wake-up call to the cultural extremes of this country. Here is my list:
Though the food in China has far exceeded my expectations, I am especially looking forward to foods I will actually recognize and understand the ingredients of! I know I am counting down the days until I get to sleep in my own house, eat "familiar" food, see my family, boyfriend, and friends, use my cell phone, drive a car, be able to read signs on the highway and in stores, be able to order something off a menu without having to venture a guess as to whether the dish contains meat or vegetables, use a fork, knife, and spoon, make salads, take a shower without having to close my mouth, cross the street without fearing for my life, go the restroom without having to squat and carry around a package of Kleenex, use napkins at restaurants, walk down the street without receiving penetrating stares, walk a few blocks without hearing an old man hack a gigantic lugee (spelling?), SWIM, go to a gym with normal weights and other workout equipment, be able to call friends at a normal hour, not have to worry about buying phone cards and whether or not they will work, drink water from the tap, be able to walk into Starbucks or a grocery store and purchase a canned coffee beverage that China seems not to market, eat at the Cheesecake Factory, eat Mexican food, eat anything BUT Chinese food.... oh, and the list goes on!
"When the dog bites
When the bee stings
When I'm feeling sad
I simply remember my favorite things
And then I don't feel so bad..."
Wistfully,
Jessica Shaw
Just Like Home...
Looking out of my window onto the busy streets of Wuhan, it's not a sight I'd mistake for America. Even Chinese restaurants don't remind me of American ones; the lack of soy sauce, sweet and sour food, rice with the meal, etc. mean that those restaurants are very different. Overall, there is very little we experience here that is "like home." However, one situation reminded me intimately of my home in Houston and demonstrated how immigrants are seeking a better life in East China.
The last morning in Shanghai, I went to an internet cafe outside of the campus gates. When I was finished, I wandered in vain for a restaurant, until I was intrigued by some exotic and mouth watering smells from a place lorded over by a man with more hair on his mustache than his head. It was a Uiyger restaurant, run by Muslim immigrants from China's northwest. They look very different than the Han Chinese who make up 99.9% of the people we've seen on the streets so far. Their food is based on lamb and an oven-baked flat bread not unlike pita bread.
Because I had an Armenian friend from home who exposed me to the breadth of Middle Eastern food in Houston TX, I had been in the same situation as I was in Shanghai before. After all, I could recognize the patriarch, lording over his domain, running the cash register, and barking orders in a language that was definitely not Chinese. I could recognize the assimilating, bilingual sons tasked with being the waiters and handimen of the restaurant. I could recognize the elegently dressed wife, whose suit and pearls belied the fact that her entire life world was invested this restaurant and that she was still married to the large mustached man in the cutoff shirt. I could recognize the curious "what is he doing here?" looks from patrons and idle waiters from my experience in empty Lebanese cafes in Houston. It was heartening to recognize the immigrant experience in a place so far away. The meal was among the best I've had in China and the picture menu and poor English translations steered me away from pigeon meat, lamb's brain, and many other delicacies best experienced by natives. Now that China's people are free to travel the countryside, I expect to see more and more ethnic minorities take advantage of the opportunities to use their talents in the city. After all, isn't that the American Dream?
-Taylor Woods
Engery Woes?
A distinguishing feature of China are the lights ... everywhere. I like it. It's like having Christmas decorations year-round. The Chinese obsession with lighting was striking in the city of Hangzhou where it seemed like almost every restaurant, shop and hotel was outlined in lights. It looked like a gingerbread house town. Even the highway bridges are lightscaped, and everywhere you turn there is another blinking sign. Movie theater-sized screens are used for advertisments. Trucks with big LCD displays cruise through the streets of Shanghai. And the lights don't stop at the door ... inside one restaurant I saw, flourescent lights covered the ceiling completely. It was so bright that they should include a pair of sunglasses with the meal. Of all the lights, though, the view of the Pearl from the Bund in Shanghai (see above) takes the cake ... or should I say the electicity.
Christina Dixon
Learning Chinese
Halfway through our China trip, many students have undergone radical changes. Some are more conscious of how fun it is to travel and how much of the world there is to see. Just about everyone's figured out that they're effectively unable to communicate with billions of people. A group of us, somewhere around 3 to 6 of us, depending on our mood, have concluded that we should start taking Chinese language. No one, however, has any overt plans to achieve fluency and return to China at the moment.
Instead, the committment to learn Chinese stems from the dislocation we experience everyday as novices at Chinese. Our favorite phrase at the moment is "Hey Pen Pen...", directed at our Chinese speaking guide. In a country with a language system that doesn't lend itself to phonetic pronunciation and with English education in terrible shape here, it's hard not knowing Chinese. Now that we're in Wuhan, it's even more difficult. This is a city in the middle of China, whose industry and commerce do not seem to depend on foreigners. Hangzhou was a tourist town and Shanghai is an international city, but Wuhan's stores and signs indicate that this city is authentically Chinese. Which means our class is bound to suffer.
Also, we've made life much more difficult for Chinese and on ourselves by not knowing the language. We've missed opportunities to save money, do laundry, order dessert, and many little things by not knowing rudimentary Chinese. Perhaps it's some guilt, or debt we owe the Chinese people, that's compelling us to take a few semesters. Or, perhaps some have designs to return; after all, any conversation with an "English Teacher" here is useless. There is heavy demand and short supply of people able to communicate effectively in English and even university teachers don't come close to fluency or understandable pronunciation. Whatever classes people choose to take in the fall, I'm sure Professor Fu will welcome us in his class and we'll be better equipped for a later return to China.
-Taylor Woods
We Were Born in Shanghai
We’ve only been here for three weeks - three weeks in a country so different and fascinating we hardly have time to really adapt. Yet, I feel more and more like I know this place, like it is not that foreign to me and I am not just an alien in it.
We were born in Shanghai. No matter if the great city is the real face of China or not, it was there we made our first steps on Chinese soil and spoke our first words of Mandarin. Shanghai is the beginning, the childhood, the adolescence, and the memory of safety.
Now that we have left the comfort zone of our (slightly) familiar city and visited the rural areas of China as well as another financial center Hang Zhou, I realize how much I miss home – Shanghai. I miss turning the familiar corner on my way to “Cloud Nine”, I miss looking for a restaurant at the back gate, I miss pushing myself through Nanjing Road. Those visits of the rest of China are amazing and unforgettable, but in the end of the day I just want to be home and go to the Hibachi place or something.
It is funny how easily one can get attached, even to places that seemed unbearable at first, at least to me. With its rude crowds, crazy traffic and enormousness of landscape, Shanghai was once so overwhelming that I wanted to get away. Now, I can’t wait to go back!
Margarita Antonova
May 15, 2007
We found cheaper shipping!
We have all accumulated a decent amount of souvenirs at this point in the trip. Pen Pen, our tour guide, recently told us that one is only allowed 40 pounds total for checked baggage on Chinese domestic flights, and that in the worst case scenario, we would have to throw out everything over 40 pounds (Uh oh....). That wasn't going to work for most of us.
Pen Pen told us this morning that it would be 50 Yuan to ship a bag full of souvenirs to Beijing. Since Beijing is our final stop on the trip (and only a week away), we realized this would be our best option. Besides, 50 Yuan is what, 7 US Dollars?
A few of us boarded the bus this evening to go to the shipping place. I figured it would be a UPS or Fed-Ex. Oh boy was I wrong. As we pulled in, I was in total shock. The place seemed like it was straight out of a movie: we found ourselves in a hidden garage with Chinese men lurking about. There were crates thrown in random places, ladders everywhere, grafiti on the walls, and very few lights. Now I know why our shipping method cost 50 Yuan in comparison to Katie's 2700 Yuan.
As we placed our bags on the crate, the men came over and began taping our luggage (I guess as assurance that they would not search our bags. Tape has always been my number one method of security, how about you?). They asked us if we wanted insurance. Did I ever. I then put a lock on my bag for extra security, and left it extremely skeptical of the method in which it would be carried to Beijing. Good thing I kept my valuables in my 40 pound bag! I'll let you know in a week whether or not these men held up their end of the bargain!
Kristen Krouchick
Not What I Expected from Henglu
After talking to people before I left for China and telling them all the places that I would be visiting, they recognized all of the cities except one, Henglu. Even a guy I worked for who lived in China for most of his life didn't even know where I was going. Then, when I heard we were going to stay at a local house with a Chinese family, I thought how awkward this was going to be. We were supposed to be broken up into groups of about four and have dinner and breakfast for two nights with people we weren't even able to communicate with.
Once we got to China and I heard the details of the stay about two before that we would split up halfway with about 10 people in each group, it didn't seem so bad. Each group also had a translator which I thought would help out too.
However, once we got there, everything turned out to be great. We arrived to the two houses and kids started showing up from the town. Many of them could speak a little bit of English, while a few could have a fluent conversation. They were very eager to talk to us and practice their English. They were not timid as all as they came right up to your face and said Hello, what is your name? Right from that moment, I knew it would be a great time.
The first night most of us were at the park pretty late talking to the kids. One girl, named Jenny (Xian Jing) who was 15 years old, stood out to the entire group. She probably knew the best English which gave her a big advantage because we could have good conversations with her. I tried some of my Chinese that I knew on them which got them to stare blankly at first, but eventually they were complimenting how well I knew the language. I know they were just saying that.
The next night we had a talent show while they sang well and did magic tricks while we rapped "The Fresh Prince", danced a little, and attempted magic tricks. It was a fun night and weekend. I think everyone is very glad we went to a small village to experience the life and meet some nice people.
Bryce Foster
The Americans take on Hangzhou
In case you were wondering: my package arrived in America yesterday!
In other news, although our stay in Hangzhou is relatively brief, we've encountered a lot of situations where we have been forced to step out of our American brains and take on the Chinese:
1. Laundry: You might think that it's wonderfully convenient that our hotel has a laundry service. However, you might have forgotten that we don't speak Chinese and the people that work here don't speak English. Cami and I examined the price per laundry item on the (poorly) translated list provided by the hotel: everything thing was ridiculously expensive, especially by Chinese standards, but we really needed to get some clean clothes. So, naturally, we called the extension provided. The only problem is the complete lack of a common language. So instead we flagged someone down in the hallway. After communicating that we wanted laundry done, we went through piece by piece of our laundry and added up the cost as the maids (an intimidating team of 3) used their hands to show the price per item. After an exhausting count totaling 223 yuan, the maids did the same exact thing again! So we had to wait while they went through and added it all up, totaling 224 yuan; we were off by a whopping 12 cents. The system was totally inefficient, but we did receive our clothes back 24 hours later neatly wrapped in plastic.
2. Internet: You can use the internet in your room for 30 yuan a day. So Cami went down to the front desk, paid, and received the password. Easy enough, right? Of course not- the password didn't work. Then Cami called the front desk seeking assistance. After trying to use our Survival Chinese book to communicate vital words, they hung up. After she was able to figure it out on her own, a man from the front desk came up and started messing with the computer and we couldn't figure out how to tell him to go away, that nothing was wrong. It was very ironic.
3. Shopping: Today we shopped for a little while on a small side street nearby. I bought a shirt that reads: "Oliver's War Love Not War New York in Theo's" with an apple tree on it. One store had some really cute things and I picked out a pretty dress. The woman held it up to me (size XL) and shook her head and said No, implying that it would never fit. She did the same to Sarah and Caroline and we couldn't have felt more American, and fat.
4. Xiangyuan Hotel:
Here are some interesting facts about our hotel:
-Instead of a bar going horizontally across the closet, there are two short bars next to each other that reach from the front to the back; it makes no sense.
-We have a doorbell
-There are condoms for 20 yuan, with a note that reads "Nonrefundable if seal is broken"
-There is a brochure, written in Chinese and illustrated, about AIDS
-There is a kareoke bar on the fourth floor and there is also a "singing room"
-We have an English movie channel!
Katie Simpson
I Heart Fried Rice
Hands down, the part of the day that everyone looks forward to: mealtime.
(At least, I can speak for myself on this matter)
I don't know what it is about China, maybe it's the air, but something makes me constantly ravenous in this country. (And let me just let everyone know that I am absolutely obsessed with fried rice and I don't know how I will go a day without it when we get back home)
That said, after getting through the first weeks of being here, as I may have mentioned before, our use of chopsticks has become significantly advanced. As a result, we all can grab at food more quickly and successfully. And thus, mealtime has evolved from a bumbling, clumsy affair, to a hectic and frantic scramble to snag everything off the plates in front of us. When you think they have brought out the last plate, you're always wrong. There are always 6 more to follow. So you eat as much as you can, thinking that that's all there is. And out come all these other plates. Naturally, you feel obliged to eat those too.
If only there were hidden cameras during our mealtimes. They might shock our friends and family at home.
They would catch the craziness that emerges as each plate is placed on the "lazy susans" before us. To be more specific, during our home stay in Henglu, one night was dumpling night. Now, no one loves dumplings more than Melissa, but I can definitely say that we all love dumplings almost as much. What started off that night as a calm meal of dumplings, turned into a fight to the death (or a competition to eat the most dumplings). As each bowl of dumplings was placed on the table, everyone would stand, jab, push and poke with elbows, arms and chopsticks, to pick up as many dumplings as possible. Note: During mealtime, whacking another person's chopstick to get at their dumpling is a completely accepted move.
For the record, Bryce won the dumpling eating contest, Danner came in 2nd, and I came in 3rd (with a respectable 20 dumplings). Sorry, just wanted to tell the world.
Anyway, I am afraid to see what my mealtime skills have become when I return home. There aren't usually napkins at the tables in China (so I'll probably forget to put my napkin in my lap when I get home Mom and Dad, sorry). Also, the chinese eat rice hunched over with the bowl close to their mouth in a shoveling motion. And I'm warning everyone that a fork and knife might be clumsy in my hand now too.
Caroline Davis
Put to Work in China Tea Farms
So it seems that our group leader Pen Pen is actually a front for the China Tea Plantation labor recruitment industry. She tricked us into travelling outside the beautiful city of Hangzhou into tea country where we were put to work in the hot Chinese sun picking tea leaves. But no really it was actually a really fun experience, hiking up a small hill with a great view of the surrounding mountains and the other tea farms that graced their sides. The older Chinese fellow that owned the plantation (a strictly family business) showed us the trick to snapping the tea leaves off the small pushes which we then placed in giant woven baskets that hang from the waist. After a little tea harvesting we were served some tea and sunflower seeds for a little snack and then moved on to a demonstration of tea drying which we also took part in. The tea leaves are dried in a giant metal bowl heated (electrically) to about 200 degrees celsius (definitely not cold). We concluded the night with a wonderful dinner of assorted Chinese cuisines, eating until we couldn't fit anymore in our bellies.
Never Coming Home,
Matt Danner
May 14, 2007
Hanging in the local park...
Henglu was a complete change of scenery from Shanghai. It was a small town of about 2,000 people that produced only the basic necessities. The first night we got there, we visited the local park. This park, however, did not consist of your usual monkey bars and swings. Instead, the park contained numerous workout machines (no wonder Chinese are so skinny!).
A bunch of the local kids came to the park, and since they did not speak English, we found other ways to communicate. We played Rock Paper Scissors, thumb wars, and a hand game similar to "Miss Patty Mac." At first it was difficult to break the language barrier, but once we did, it was a lot of fun. We found out that the kids really liked singing and dancing, so we taught them the hokey-pokey. A lot of the younger kids really got into that one, and most caught on quickly. Then, a 15 year old Chinese girl sang a Chinese song while the rest of us danced along. It was definitely an experience I've never had before, and one I'll never forget.
We really bonded with these kids, and it was sad to leave them. We tried to exchange emails and addresses, but the kids do not have addresses or access to email! We gave them our addresses in hopes that they will come find us one day!
Kristen Krouchick
Chopstick Etiquette
I never knew two wooden sticks would be the source of such humiliation.
Most of our meals in China have been eaten around a circular table with a rotating glass plate in the center where dishes of all textures, smells, and colors are placed and slowly spun so that each person can awkwardly or skillfully (depending on one's comfort level with chopsticks) extract bits of each dish to pile on his or her plate. I have discovered that it is quite difficult to keep track of how much food I have actually consumed when I keep re-filling my plate. I really enjoy the concept of chopsticks, though, because my food has time to digest during my meal rather than in America where everyone shovels food into their mouths at shocking rates of speed.
One of my favorite dishes so far has been cooked cabbage that was "marinated" in oyster sauce of some sort. It was delicious, but also very tricky to manage with my clumsy "utensils." I always feel guilty due to my inadequacies when it comes to utilizing my chopsticks properly. Sometimes when I think I have mastered the art of balancing a portion of food between these two awkward pieces of wood or plastic, a large piece of dripping, sauce-covered vegetable or slippery dumpling will escape my grasp and plummet to the starched, white tablecloth below forming an ominous stain that seems to grow larger and more obvious as the liquid disperses across the fabric. It is a mystery to me how the cloths blanketing the tables manage to maintain their pristine white color.
At one restaurant, a waiter actually extracted the chopsticks from my hand and tried to drill into my head the correct way to hold them. I nodded apologetically, but I do not think the mini "how to" lesson has helped. How hard can it be to handle two sticks? Apparently my motor skills need some serious refining. I feel grateful that this trip has provided a way to exercise these talents, but for now, chopsticks and I have a serious love-hate relationship.
Seeking help,
Jessica Shaw
Road Rage
Every time I step into a taxi, I see my life flash before my eyes.
Let me clarify: every time I set foot in a motor vehicle of any shape or size, I have to glue my eyes shut to avoid hyperventilating or some other equally humiliating reaction. I know for a fact that I would never be able to navigate the chaotic traffic scene in China. Sure, there are lines that dictate the direction of traffic, but it is a mistake to believe that any driver actually acknowledges these "guidelines."
I cannot count on my fingers and toes how many times I have feared for the life of a cyclist that comes within INCHES of a head-on collision with a bus or cab that I am a passenger in. So much for yielding to pedestrians in this country - this rule does not exist. The amusing thing to me, if you can call this amusing, is that these vulnerable cyclists remain unphased while my mouth is gaping open, usually covered quickly with my hand to muffle a petrified scream. These cyclists calmly swerve appearing like they do not have a care in the world. This amazes me.
Finally, honking: people lay on their horn in this country like it is their job. It must be some cultural greeting or announcement that a bus or car has traveled another 50 meters and must make its presence known to every vehicle around it. Maybe by the end of the trip, I will have grown somewhat immune to this deafening sound, but that accomplishment does not seem within reach yet.
I suppose on a positive note, no longer will I complain about the insanity of New York traffic. China has put all American vehicle etiquette into perspective.
Sincerely,
Jessica Shaw
Pimp My Scooter
Back in the states, it is rather typical to see some people spending some extra cash to spice up their ride. Be it shiny chrome wheels, ear-splitting stereos, cool paint or loud exhausts, people are always looking for that extra flash to help them get noticed. It is a manner of personal expression, as well as a way to stand out in a sea of millions. In China, there seems to be a similar urge, especially when you are only one in a sea of billions. But here in a land of taxis and unpredictable traffic, the personal car is not the focus, instead it’s the scooter. In an effort to stand out, one young man’s scooter made sure you knew that he was coming and he was cool. His scooter was equipped with chrome wheels, a sound-enhancing muffler and stereo system that could be heard all over campus. He was not alone either; his friends’ scooters were equipped with the same mufflers and wheels with the addition of blue neon lights on the bottom. These guys were definitely “high profile”, and got the attention they wanted when two females from our party were quick to demand a ride on the back of their scooters. In the U.S. it’s “pimp my ride”, in Shanghai it’s “pimp my scooter”.
Still fly,
Ryan MacPhee
May 13, 2007
I Held A Pet Squirrel
Growing up in North Carolina, I have always thought of squirrels as a nuisance. The less squirrels the better, at least I thought. However, the children in the remote Chinese village known as Henglu have a different take on this furry creature. One little boy has a popular pet squirrel which he carts around town in the font pocket of his jeans.
We had the most amazing night on Friday when we first arrived in the mountain village of Henglu. After a dinner of assorted bamboo dishes (the families farm bamboo) we went walking with the village children who were home for the weekend from high school. We learned that most high schools in rural areas are boarding schools. Jenny, an English-speaking 15-year old, showed us around and even took a group of us to her family's home where we met her parents. They could not have been more kind as we were asked to come in where her mother served us a snack of green tea and peanuts!
While wandering around the quiet village, we kept asking each other in amazement, "I wonder what they do for fun?" There appeared to be no forms of entertainment - only the occasional television. Jenny was our connection into the local social scene ... we ended up at the park. It was packed with kids of all ages. The park was especially interesting because it had different types of workout equipment, almost like a playground for adults. They had a structure similar to an elliptical and others that reminded me of our weight machines back in the States. We were standing in groups talking to the locals when Professor Pirkle walked over to our group and said, "Have y'all ever seen a pet squirrel?"
Sure enough, this Chinese boy was passing around his pet squirrel. I resisted holding (or even touching) it for a while, and finally my curiosity got the best of me. I decided that if the squirrel was docile enough to travel in the boy's jeans' pocket, then it would be somewhat well-mannered if I dared to hold it. The little guy was actually softer than I expected and this squirrel was smaller than the squirrels I am accustomed to seeing scamper up and down the oak trees in my backyard at home. The next day the same kids followed us throughout our tour of the township and the boy didn't forget to bring his squirrel along. Check out the video - I caught it emerging from his coat pocket one time. Only in China...
Christina Dixon
Transitions: From Shanghai to Henglu
It is our first change of scenery since arriving in China. Though it was only a bus ride away, the two places are worlds apart. Shanghai is a massive city whose combination of size and growth is matched by none. It is considered one of the financial capitals of the world and continues to expand economically. On the other hand, Henglu is a mere dot on the map compared to Shanghai. It is a fraction of the size both by population and land area, which is certainly an understatement. Henglu is a mountain town whose stature is dwarfed by that of Shanghai.
Having first experienced Shanghai, our view of China was greatly skewed. It may have given us a perfect view of the advancement of this country and the economic development it is undergoing, but in no way does it capture the essence of China. Though Shanghai was a very interesting place and a fun way to begin our adventure, we would be greatly mistaken to believe it was all China has to offer. I believe that I can speak for the rest of the group in saying that we will miss Shanghai, but at the same time, we all knew that it will be refreshing to get out of the city life it offers. However, I didn't expect to make such a dramatic change as transitioning from Shanghai to a little place called Henglu.
Henglu can be somewhat compared to Lexington, Va in its population, but has more land area and a spread out people. The people and environment are so different in this area as opposed to the Shanghaianese. Though the people of Shanghai are familiar with western presence, those in Henglu were not. They were excited to see us and found pleasure in following us on our visits. In fact, our group of 22 or so, often turned into a group of 40 or even 50 at times. It was a humbling experience to meet these people and live the lifestyle that they see as normal. This portion of the trip was just as fun as Shanghai in my eyes because it gave us a pure look at rural China. The food was simple, but amazing and every day life moves at a much slower pace. My perception of China has forever changed from this one experience.
Sincerely,
Thomas Hubka
May 11, 2007
Walking Backward
Who knew when Kristen and I hit the track around 10:30 a couple nights ago it would end up being one of my most memorable moments here in Shanghai. We read in Chinese Lessons by John Pomfret that Chinese people commonly walk backward for exercise. We decided to try it.
After our dinner with the noodlemen we found the track... It was packed! People were doing exercises we had never seen before. And to make the scene even more foreign to us, many of the Chinese were wearing everyday clothes ... We are talking jeans and button downs while running sprints. Everywhere you looked couples were milling around (girls and guys aren't allowed in dorms of the opposite sex so everyone hangs out outside).
A few laps into our backpedaling workout, two Chinese students approached us and said they wanted to interview foreigners. The girl, Joyce, turned her microphone (a 7-up bottle) our way. The guy introduced himself as "Kitten" and pointed his "camera" (which we discovered was a box of milk pouches...typical) on us. While walking around the track we discussed everything from the funny guy singing in the middle of the field to whether or not Joyce and Kitten were dating people at East China Normal University (They aren't but are looking...)
They both spoke fantastic English and it was really the first time I had interacted with local Chinese students in a social situation. Seven laps later we bid Joyce and Kitten fairwell and ducked out of the teeny-tiny entrance to the track.
Maybe I'll try my new Chinese workout back at W and L. I can't imagine how people would react if, when we get back to school, a bunch of us hit the track ... walking backward. They would probably interview us again - for acting crazy. However, it is merely another cultural diifference we have had the opportunity to embrace and we had a blast doing it!
Christina Dixon
From 20 million to 1500
We leave Shanghai this afternoon, and I have mixed feelings about it.
On one hand, I believe we feel like we've all made a second home in Shanghai. The East China Normal University campus has become as familiar as W&L. We finally know where to get food, necessities, phone cards, and baby rabbits in a cage. And now that we've mastered all of that, it's time to leave.
Many of our speakers have told us repeatedly that "Shanghai is not China" -- Professor Luecke even wrote it on the board for us yesterday, just to further ease us into what could be a cold turkey change.
On the whole, the change will be good. Our memories will be more vivid as we continue to travel to new places rather than being in the same dorm room for weeks. (As a side note, the rooms here are way better than what I expected from a "dorm.") So on that point of optimism, I will pack for our next destination: Henglu, a tiny farming town of about 1500 people. To say it will be a contrast might be a bit of an understatement. Stay tuned!
Alex Kraus
Noodle Vendors
Throughout the trip, I have noticed the numerous noodle vendors that line the streets of China. I’ve always commented, however, on how unsanitary they looked. The noodleman grabs the noodles with his hands, and throws them in the fryer. Not my idea of a yummy dinner. I thought I was never going to eat from them.
However, I was in a very "Chinese" spirit the other day. I had gotten a Chinese pedicure (which was a bit different from the United States: lets just say they brought out boiling water in a trashbag-lined bucket for you to stick your feet in), and I was ready for some real Chinese eating.
Christina and I ventured to the back gate of our University to pick out a noodle stand. We checked out our different options, although the food was pretty standard at each vendor: fried noodles or fried rice. As we scoped out the different stands, the vendors were screaming at us in Chinese, trying to get us to eat at their stand in particular. At one point, we turned around to leave because we were so overwhelmed with all the Chinese screaming. However, we realized that we were being ridiculous, and turned back around.
We chose a pretty crowded vendor, and got fried rice, fried noodles, and dumplings to split among the two of us. The vendor had picnic table style seating, so we sat down to enjoy our lovely Chinese meal! Believe it or not, it was a great meal (and cheap)! Now I know where the students can go to get a tasty, cheap meal. Because Christina and I are not yet expert "chopstickers," it took us a long time to chopstick up all the rice. However, it was fun to immerse ourselves in the Chinese culture!
When I first got to China, I never thought I'd be eating food off the streets. However, now, I just equate fried rice from the road with eating a hot dog off an NYC vendor. I would highly recommend the vendors to anyone visiting China. It’s a great way to get a delicious dinner, while mingling with the locals!
Kristen Krouchick
Like a super model in Shanghai
Who would have thought that in the far end of the world, people as common as I am could be stars? Yesterday as we were walking through the amazing old city of Shanghai, admiring the architecture and ignoring the Starbucks coffee shops, we saw an interesting demonstration of hairstyles. The girl in all of us pinned us to the spot and didn't let us move our eyes away.
An especially swift in his movements Chinese man with a golden ring was twisting and turning a girls long black hair using an enormous pin with a wide circle in the end. The result was that her hair was woven around holding itself up. We all clapped at the pretty site. Our mind was telling us we had to go and catch the ride home, but our girl instinct was not letting us go yet - there had to be something more to come.
We lingered for a few seconds pondering our options when the guy with the ring came up to me and pulled me to the front of the crowd. He said that I had beautiful hair and I had to model it. Sure I do, I was thinking to myself, because I washed it a few hours ago!!!
So there I was, the girl who hates being touched, standing in front of a crowd while a stranger does God knows what black magic with my hair. The crowd was cheering, the man was babbling in Chinese, his assistant was showering me with compliments, my friends were giggling - it was amazing!
He finished his creation in 30 seconds and surely my hair stayed up by itself until late in the night when wild dancing took the best of it. As I was a leaving the site a couple of Chinese girls told me I should be a model!
You never know where washing you hair could take you! TIC!
Margarita Antonova
May 10, 2007
I Think We Should Blog About How I Have Nothing to Blog About
Something is wrong. I feel like I have nothing to talk about. I go out quite a bit, we obviously are doing plenty. Sometimes I even wander around alone, tolerating the stares and isolation, but nothing seems to happen. Maybe I've just grown too comfortable here, I've become accustomed to things in which I might have otherwise found great interest. Maybe it's because I spend most of my time bartering for cheap jewelry and art. I can't explain it, but here I sit, trying to blog and drawing a blank.
On that note, I would like to open a thread for conversation on this blog. I hope this is something many people can contribute to. Essentially, I'm trying to find a way to prompt other people to blog for me, to succeed where I can only fail.
I'm curious to hear peoples' opinions on what they feel is the dominant philosophy of the urban Chinese. I was enjoying a beautiful sunset over the lake in Zhongshan park a few evenings back (I've been without internet access for awhile), and I found myself looking at the skyline of Shanghai towering above the tree tops and contemplating the general state of mind of the people here. I came to the conclusion that it's a state of nihilism. I feel like the people lack belief, in such a way that they have no real vision for the future or something greater than themselves. Individuals exist simply to scrape out the best life they can for themselves, and the country finds itself in a similar state. There is a general lack of concern for other people and the rippling effects of one's actions. Moreover, the people give no thought to the past. In our readings and in various interviews I have found the Chinese are eager to ignore or deny the past. Anyone who has ever enjoyed the cult classic.
All I know is that anyone who has ever enjoyed the cult classic, "The Big Lebowski" knows how dangerous nihilists can be. They believe in nothing and are thought by some to be cowards.
I'd like to hear some other people's feedback on this.
Stone Carving & Finger Painting...
China is known for its seemingly endless number of products and trades. If you can think of it, this country can most likely provide it. While wandering through the markets around the infamous Yuyuan Garden, several of us came across two very intriguing trades: stone carving and finger painting. Though they sound relatively boring, it is deceivingly difficult and it requires much skill to master these particular arts. In fact, with booths side to side, two men performed each task before our eyes.
The stone carving stand had an array of necklaces with blank stones. With stones of all shapes and colors, the "master carver" takes requests of what to write or draw on them. Anything from names to scenery to animals, this professional could do it all. He would do it in a matter of minutes and carve to perfection. It clearly takes a very steady hand and an extremely artistic touch. After carving the grooves, he filled them with colorful paint and completed a perfect gift for anyone, man or woman.
The finger printing was clearly an acquired skill. It wasn't your standard finger painting either; this artist used the side of his palm and an overgrown pinky fingernail to get the job done. Taking a total of seven minutes, he painted beautiful landscapes that would look good on anyones wall. I enjoyed this profession because I had actually learned of it on a trip to Puerto Vallarta a year ago. There, I ran into one of ten artists in the Americas who painted solely with an overgrown pinky fingernail. I learned how hard of a profession it was which led to my interest in this form of art. I have now found another artist of this sort half way around the world, in this country we call China.
Yours truly,
Thomas Hubka
Return to Shanghai
After spending less than two weeks in Shanghai, many members of our group have fallen in love with the place. Even with all its flaws, Shanghai is absolutely amazing. Hopefully, my future endeavors will bring me back to beautiful Shanghai. Many of us have discussed working here after college and I would certainly love that oppertunity.
All of our speakers keep mentioning that Shanghai is not China, so I won't be able to say if I want to live in China, but Shanghai, none the less, would be wonderful. I am shocked to see how many W&L alums have made China their new home, such as Andrew Hamm and Manmeet Singh. Mr. Hamm is an advisor for China Construction Bank and has lived in China for several years. Mr. Singh started his own company here in China a few years back. Their experiences have only inspired me more to study Chinese and then pursue working here in a couple of years.
Hopefully more students from W&L will become interested in China, whether it be for study abroad, employment, or personal enjoyment.
-Melissa Ginder
China: A Country of Little Emperors
Yesterday, after seemingly circling the area for twenty minutes, our bus tour took a stop at the main high school for the university that we've been residing in for the past two weeks, East China Normal University. This public high school resembled what would be a boarding school back in the states, with the students dressed in red, white and blue uniforms (patriotic color combination for us foreigners) and the buildings in outstanding condition.
The environment of this top-ranked high school of Shanghai really put the pieces together of who the "little emperors" are that many of our guest speakers have been addressing. The country's One Child Policy has led many Chinese families to devote themselves to their one child. The families of these only children have been able to provide top notch education for their sole offspring along with many other luxuries. The family structure, described as an inverted pyramid, has four grandparents and two parents feeding all their time and energy into the success of their one child. By lacking a sister or brother, these "little emperors" have found themselves in impressive high schools and universities that will promise their families a comfortable future.
However, at the same time, very little money for education finds itself in western China, which keeps that rural population stuck in poverty. In China, the funding for education is provided only for the elite. Shanghai of course, sees no lack of funding.
Often times wishing I was an only child,
Sarah McCarville
Pollution at the I <3 Shanghai Bar
The other night pretty much our entire group went to this bar called "I <3 Shanghai." It was ladies night so our group, which is predominately girls, got a great deal on beverages! One of the most intriguing parts of our time at the bar were the signs in the bathroom. This bar had a squatter and a Western toilet which was good, but in both were signs about the pollution. They said something like this:
"Please throw all toilet paper into the trash can. The contents of these toilets is dumped directly into the _____ River. Thank you for helping address this problem."
I do not remember the name of the river, hence the blank space, but I was shocked that it was so publicly acknowledged. I could not believe that they essentially said here is where your excrement is being dumped. I also wondered how well the public responded to these signs, and whether or not paper signs in bars were an effective method of alleviating pollution here. This was the first time I have witnessed any kind of warnings in restrooms about the pollution, and we have been to various locations in Shanghai!
The signs about how the bathroom I was using contributed to the pollution in China were just very surprising. Not to mention the fact that you do not expect to see those kind of warnings in bars.
~Amanda Kane
Express mail to America? That'll be 2,645.
After spending almost two weeks in Shanghai, I accumulated more souvieners than I could carry. I decided that the best way to handle the situation would be to mail them back to America before leaving Shanghai for smaller cities in China. It proved to be more trouble than I anticipated and quite different from America.
I got a box, filled it up and spent about 20 minutes taping it closed. Then realized I could barely carry it. Gathering all of my strength, I struggled carrying it the half mile from the dorm to the post office. Of the hundreds of people I passed on the walk, the only two that offered to help were the two from W&L, Taylor and Christina.
When I finally got to the post office, armed with a piece of paper with the Chinese characters for "express mail," I thought the hard part was over. Far from it. I struggled with the post office employees to figure out that I needed to fill out a form. Then I had to choose which form. I kept pointing to the character for "express" and eventually they chose for me. The next obstacle was filling out the form. Name, address, country? Nope. Try name, city, country, name again, address, phone number. The "from" section was equally, if not more, confusing, considering I'm leaving Shanghai tomorrow. So I finally finished the form. It was then time for the lady to wip out her scissors and slice through my precious taping job and examine the contents of my box. When she was finally satisfied and re-taped it and took it behind the counter and took my form I was thrilled that it was ready to go. Then she told me how much it costs: 2,645 yuan (about $325). I came prepared to spend under 1000 yuan. Luckily, in addition to the 1000 yuan, I had some cash in my wallet and some random bills floating in my bag. All of my Chinese money totaled 2,400, about 200 short. The atm wouldn't take my American debit card. Great, all that work and now the huge brick of a box needed to be carried back. My last resort was to get a Chinese person in the post office to trade me their yuan for my American cash. After being turned down and slowly losing hope, some young Chinese girls saved me and traded with me. I was so grateful, they're my new best friends.
My package, which ironically cost more to ship than the monetary value of its contents, is on it's way to America! I'll let you know if it ever arrives.
Katie Simpson
May 9, 2007
Markets and Media Week 1-2 in Photos
Professor Zhou Shi Zhe (ECNU) gave us a tutorial on traditional Chinese brush painting.
After that, we gave our hands a try at our own painting. Unlike the traditional teaching method in Asia -- copying a master's model -- Prof. Zhou encouraged us to paint anything we liked.
Andrew Hemm (W&L alum) shared some of his experiences doing risk management for Chinese banks.
Just outside of People's Park, you'll find the ultra-modern multi-story Shanghai Urban Planning Museum, where the city ostentatiously shows off its growth on one floor with a basketball court-sized scale model of the city.
I'm pretty sure this sign, found at the Yangshan Deepwater Port, means to say something like "Check out the view at the top of the terrace."
This is the scene from the balcony of our dorms at ECNU.
Alisha Laventure recorded the explanation of the TV studio at the Shanghai Securities News.
The TV studio at the Shanghai Securities News before adding W&L students...
...and after.
Cheng Pei Song of the Shanghai Securities News showed us the layout of today's paper.
This was just course one of a literal feast with the staff of the Shanghai Securities News.
We had only 15 minutes to look around the Shanghai Stock Exchange, which hit an all-time high today of 4,013.09 points.
Ryan MacPhee and Caroline Davis had a lively discussion at the Stock Exchange.
Posted by Alex Kraus
Buddy, if you want a bite, just say so.
I spent some significant time alone today for the first time since the beginning of the trip.
After dropping what seemed like a fortune at the "Gray Market" (after conversion, I only spent about $60 US), I took the subway toward ECNU. As it ends up, I went about a stop too far and ended up at the Jiangsu Road station.
I decided to stop for dinner near the station and decided on an upscale-looking restaurant which was called the New China Bistro. I was still relatively full from our lunch feast provided by the Shanghai Securities News, so I only got one dish, Black Pepper Calf.
Even before we arrived in China, our professors warned us to be prepared to be stared at. Indeed, I have noticed more than my share of stray glances in the past week and a half. But nothing could compare to tonight.
The looks I got were not just curious glances. They were full-on, honestly-do-you-mind, can-I-help-you-with-something gapes. As the local clientele passed my table, they would literally stop for a few seconds facing me before continuing on their way. One man aimlessless wandered back for a second gawk, and then leaned over the table to inspect what my American taste buds picked off of the menu. Buddy, if you want a bite, just say so.
I'm not sure what looked stranger them -- the fact that I was eating a communal dish all by myself or using chopsticks with my left hand. (Everything John Pomfret said about getting teased for our right-brain tendencies definitely still applies.)
As awkward as all of this might sound in a typical American setting, context here is a huge buffer for what would otherwise be intolerable. I really didn't mind being the odd conversation piece in the room, and it was only after I left that I thought how strange it would be at home to be the subject of so much attention. Many of us have already written about Chinese personal space (or lack thereof), and as long as you keep in mind that none of it is ill-spirited, you can stay pretty mellow -- no matter how cramped the bus is or how clingly the shopkeeper.
Alex Kraus
I Don't Even Like Sunglasses: A Haggler's Guide to Shanghai
Shopping here in Shanghai is not for the faint of heart.
As American tourists, we are constantly badgered wherever we go: "Come with me! Come with me! Real Gucci bags. Chanel sunglasses. North Face fleeces. This way, this way."
During our first few days in Shanghai, most of us were easily swayed by these advances. But now, a week and a half into our adventures in China, some of us have developed some bolder, more experienced responses.
"Sunglasses, sunglasses? Do you want a bag?"
"I don't like sunglasses," Katie will say.
"I don't even like bags," we both will say.
Usually our confusing responses go beyond the local bag/sunglass seller's vocabulary and we leave them behind puzzling at our words.
And besides learning polite ways to turn down "designer" bag/sunglass offers, we've also mastered the art of haggling. In fact, our complete mastery of haggling occurred this afternoon when we came upon this huge underground market at the Science and Technology Museum metro stop. Rows upon rows of chopsticks, silk robes, bags, sunglasses, t-shirts and more galore. Sellers at your elbows. Hands pulling you toward different stores. "This way, this way! Nice bags. Sunglasses."
Since I'm such a pro at haggling now, I thought I'd share a few tips of ours for those who lack the confidence to argue price:
1. Never accept the first price that they offer. If you do, you have been had.
2. Always name a ridiculously low price when they ask you what you want to pay. When they say no, just say ok and start to walk away. Show disinterest or impatience.
3. Most sellers will see you start to walk away and immediately say "Ok, your price. No joking"
4. Even if the price you name is actually a "joking" price to you, put on your best poker face and let them know that you are not, in fact, joking.
5. Keep telling them the low price that you want. If they don't give in right away, you can try walking away again. It also helps to stand right outside the store and chat for a little while. The temptation is too much for them.
6. If they aren't giving in still, you may have to resort to taking out the cash you want to pay and hold it in your hand. This is also a temptation that may be too much for them.
7. Another tip is to buy things in bulk. If they say "Gucci bag for 150" you can counter with "2 Gucci bags for 150"
8. No matter what they say is a "low price" - you can definitely get them to go lower.
9. Don't be afraid to tell them that you got the same thing for way cheaper (even if you haven't).
10. Haggling is a sport. To win, you have to be confident and not willing to give in to their price. Sometimes a purchase will take a little while... haggling is a marathon, not a sprint, if you will.
Anyway, just a few tips for those who may need the help (Matt Danner especially).
One last thing... if they tell you the "burberry" scarf is the best quality cashmere, do not believe them.
Wo ai ni!!!
Caroline
May 8, 2007
Respect My Bubble
After we were all exhausted from reading our chapters of China, Inc. a group of us headed to our the Cloud Nine Mall, where eight stories of plasma TVs and countless stores don’t even begin to explain the sensory overload.
Melissa Ginder and I immediately drifted toward the sales rack of one of the department stores. As we fished through giant containers of clothing we had to ignore the fact that our previous gift-buying escapades left us with no available room in our suitcases. But that was of little concern. On a mission to find any article of clothing with Chinese letters on it to bring home, we were shocked to find no such clothing. All the words on T-shirts were in English and I think that takes away from a gift brought back from China, even if the English is often times jumbled in translation.
After some pointing and attempts at speaking Chinese, Melissa and I discovered that the changing room to try on clothes was where we were standing, in the middle of the store. Multiple saleswomen surrounded us, pulling shirts over our heads and helping us into skirts. Though I usually appreciate a tiny bubble of personal space, it was a nice change to have someone actually help you find what you need when shopping. With a population of over 1.3 billion, it must be difficult to give everyone the space that we Americans are accustomed to.
This also marked my discovery that due to the relative size difference, I was a size or two larger in Chinese clothing than I had expected. Now that’s a pretty hard adjustment.
- Sarah McCarville
Shanghai Daily: 22 Traffic Deaths Last Week
In a side column filled with statistics about the May Day holiday, the Shanghai Daily newspaper noted that there were 22 traffic deaths last week. While Shanghai may be a large city, it's hard not to be unsettled by the numbers. This is a city where almost no one has cars; it's the scooters and bikes doing the damage. 169 were injured in what would have been a calamity anywhere else.
While we may never integrate into the culture of death surrounding pedestrian and vehicle laws, I've discovered something in my cultural encounters with Chinese. The first is that they are very curious about us and where we're from. When I play basketball, I become a minor celebrity. Perhaps it's unique for a Westerner to engage them in basketball; I've certainly been the only one playing the last week or so. It's been enjoyable to be able to interact with people on the courts; basketball is a universal language. Chinese tourists in town for the holiday wanted to practice their English with me and were genuinely curious as to what America was like and what I thought the outcome of the Rockets' playoff game was going to be. They offered a welcome respite from what we normally hear on the streets: "watches, DVDs, pretty girls."
China is a country with 800 million poor, I am told, with few property rights and a government willing to look the other way at vice. At the same time, to be a truly world class city, Shanghai will need its own Rudy Guiliani some day to make way for pedestrians who travel alone but don't desire knockoff goods or prostitutes from the 20+ people who sell them in one block. This illicit business defines Shanghai for foreign visitors right now and will probably be the source of most goods taken back to the states. It's hard to ask for peace and quiet in a city of 18 million, but Shanghai's illicit economy is booming at the moment and it certainly makes a walk through town less pleasant.
-Taylor Woods
A Unique Encounter
Today I was sitting at one of the stone tables with very uncomfortable matching stone stools in the foliage of our campus. These tables are strewn throughout the campus and off to the side from the chaotic network of roads and sidewalks that weave throughout its entirety. In the evenings, it is common to see young couples holding hands or eating a snack together under the trees.
This private respite from the noise of the streets did not turn out the way I expected. I thought I was going to be productive by journaling and writing post cards, but an interruption from a young student was welcomed as a pleasant surprise!
His name is Tony. In English. In Chinese, it is Wong Dong.
He approached me from a neighboring table at which he was quietly reading to himself. I did not see him at first, because I had my headphones in and was immersed in reading about stock market businesses adopting environmental attitudes and policies (riveting...) So, his voice was definitely a breath of fresh air!
He asked me if I had a few minutes to talk, and I invited him to sit next to me on one of the other uncomfortable stone stools that people somehow embrace. We ended up talking close to an hour. The conversation began with the basics, of course, and finding out what each other is studying and why in the world I am in China! It was ironic, because he happens to be studying communications, which is basically equivalent to my journalism major in America. His English really impressed me. There were only a few times when I had to rephrase something or he sat for a minute racking his brain for the correct English word.
Tony's family is from a "small" town (I never got the total population) that is far enough away from the University that he can only return once a year during the Chinese New Year festivities in February. He said this was the first year (in the seven he has been in Shanghai) that he has not returned home. He admitted that he misses his family very much. Tony's town makes its profits largely from coal mining. He said both of his parents worked in a factory, but they are now retired. Like a true journalist and a respectful gentleman, he would always inquire about my responses after I asked him about his life. It was quite a relief from a typical American who lives by talking about himself/herself.
He told me he is 24 and is graduating in June. I could not gather whether he was an undergraduate student or a graduate student. He recently acquired a job as a college administrator at a university about 13 minutes by bus away from ECNU. He will begin at his position after graduation. I asked him about starting a family, and he told me, with a sad tone, that of course he wanted a family, but he did not have a girlfriend. He said he used to, but she graduated and has since returned to her home town. We talked about my boyfriend though, and I showed him a picture. He described him as a "cute boy."
Tony informed me that he desired to travel to America one day. When I asked him about his views of America, he honestly responded that he admired the goal-driven attitudes of Americans and the freedoms the country grants its citizens. He admitted, however, that he did not like the War in Iraq. We discussed this issue along with the Virginia Tech tragedy. He was so informed, and it was an enlightening discussion! I inquired of him about the phenomena of the Chinese walking backwards on the track and donning umbrellas in the broad daylight. We agreed to meet again, and I am looking forward to learning more about this unique culture!
Sincerely,
Jessica Shaw
China: Taking a Step and Back
Surprisingly a few of us have actually found the time to get a few workouts in during our time here at East China Normal University. Some of us brought elastic bands to get some lifting in, others have joined in basketball games with some of the students, and others have been running on the track including myself which I was surprised to find to be quite a cultural experience. Every evening the track is full of Chinese young and old walking backwards. I'm not sure why they choose to exercise in such a manner. Maybe they need a change from walking forwards all time, but we tried it and its actually a pretty good workout. My hamstrings were definately sore the next day. The most entertaining character out one evening was a woman wearing a short skirt and high heels walking backwards. I'm not sure if she was looking for some attention or just couldn't find the time to change before going to workout, but we did notice that others also did not change from their everyday garments before hitting the track. The Chinese economy may be moving swiftly forward but its people slowly stepping backwards.
Yours Truly,
Matt Danner
Wo ai Shanghai
As mentioned in another blog, some people who were out bought some T-shirts that said I love Shanghai, or 我 (Heart) 上 海 in Chinese. I wouldn't go as far as to say that I feel this way, but after being in Shanghai for over a week, I am starting to become accustomed to everything here. Just some of these things include the university campus, the cafeteria and dorm staff, the rooms we study in, the usual restaurants we eat in, and the shopping. I feel like I've been here for a while and not ready to leave. I know Friday, when we leave from Shanghai to Henglu, I will not want to go yet. I have been trying to see everything I can here but there is so much, especially in a big city like Shanghai. Since this is the longest of our stays, I am sure I will feel the same way about our other destinations. However, Shanghai has been given the reputation as not a real represenation of China which I am excited to see. Every new place will bring a new aspect to my perspective and experience of China.
Bryce Foster
I heart Shanghai
Last night some of us went for dinner on The Bund. We decided to take a taxi, and since there were five of us, I had to try to hide in the backseat so the driver wouldn't notice. He noticed. We tried to offer to tip him, but we're not sure if the gesture was lost in translation. Either way, he got us there.
We found a great restaurant that was on a (docked) boat on the water. It was one of the best meals yet; we were even given forks, knives and napkins without asking. We really noticed the integration of Western and Chinese cultures. In addition to the cutlery, we were drinking pitchers of the only draft beer: Budweiser. When we looked accross the river at the beautiful view of the skyline, we saw a Goodyear blimp fly across the Oriental Pearl Tower. Nearer the water, we saw some Chinese writing, but we couldn't help but notice the Golden Arches of McDonalds next to the Starbucks and Haagen Daz. While we were laughing about how cheap our great meal was and how we easily could have been overcharged and never know it, the waitress returned with 100 yuan and said we accidentally overpayed. We decided to celebrate by checking out a bar that again reflected the Western influences in Shanghai.
The bar was called I heart Shanghai, and we bought shirts that, in Chinese, say I heart Shanghai in a pattern replicating the well known "I heart NY" t-shirts. I'm wearing mine right now and I kind of feel like a tool when people that go to school here look at me weirdly. The bar, owned by an American, felt very Western. It had regular toilets -- even toilet paper and soap! We played pool and enjoyed half price drinks until 9, including the all-American beer-bong. From inside the Americanish bar, we could look out to the street and see Chinese street vendors selling wheels for our shoes and begging for money. It was a very ironic juxtaposition.
Katie Simpson
A Trip to China's Deep-Sea Port
~22 mile bridge sea-bridge to the port
Not your local Mom and Pop Operation
Name of the port in Chinese
Little boy soaking up the attention
I made sure everyone made it home safely
Posted by: Ryan MacPhee
Escalator to Top of the World?
Just to give you all back home a bit of scale (and there are about four other levels that did not fit in the picture), here is a picture of the escalator inside the "Cloud 9" mall just two bus stops from our hotel. As you walk into the mall your jaw drops as your eyes follow the escalators up to the top, it is just enormous. And this is just one glimpse of about four or five other flights of escalators that make up the entire mall. There is basically a shop for just about whatever you need, including a store specializing in "old fashioned stereos". But as you zigzag up to the top this mountain of commerce, you run into a surprising realization...the top floor is almost completely empty aside from a lonely KFC. Across the street from this mall are two more, with a similar problem. Turns out that this is a common phenomenon here in Shanghai called "overcapacity". With hundreds of giant malls like this one popping up all over the province, there are only so many retailers, eateries, etc. that want to fill the vacant shops. But that is not going to stop construction as there is another mall being built a few blocks down the street. Jack Marr, who came to give us a lecture, informed us that this creates a potential for trouble in the future as there is a huge amount of fixed investments in items such as buildings, factories, etc (Fixed investment reached 43% in 2004). So the question is "what do you do about it?" Well, planners and managers are constantly claiming that "this is the last one, this is it." but once it’s built, the process starts all over again. And Marr told us that this is happening all over and has been for years, creating a sort of "bubble". Given our limited period of time in China, our only hope is that Chinese companies will eventually realize that a market-based economy rewards a rational, efficient allocation of capital and sooner or later this inefficient allocation of capital may come back to bite them.
Ryan MacPhee
May 6, 2007
Jungle Dangers in the Shanghai Wal-Mart
On Saturday we had a very exciting mission. We had to inspect a Chinese Wal-Mart at 8:30 in the morning and shop as if it was any other normal American Wal-Mart.
At first, it did seem like any other mega store. Walking down the isles we could see cereal, Coca-Cola, cookies, spices, seaweed (!!!) - the usual. The cooked food section attracted us with pleasant smells. There we found a hint of the non-American nature of the store. With white medical masks on their faces, the staff offered dumplings, sweet and sour chicken, and a whole roasted pig. With the head! Lacking the courage and probably the equipment to take care of an entire pig, we just had some rice flour pancakes with egg and some greens. It was amazing!
Finally, we had to check if the roomers of tanks with live fish in Wal-Mart were true. Following our noses to the fish section we faced a wall of clear tanks, homes of restless turtles, sleepy frogs, energetic shrimp, and disturbing eel. (How can anything so ugly be so tasty?!?) Of course there was tons of fish as well.
One of the tanks looked pretty crowded with the silver swimming food, so I took a step forward curiously to look into it and admire the view from above. As I did that, I GOT ATTACKED BY ONE OF THE FISH!!! It jumped up from the water with Hercules strength and hit my chest with unbearable power! After successfully clearing the target, it started smugly flapping on the floor! It took five employees to put the fish back in the tank - it was that strong!
After I recovered from the shock of the fish’s rude behavior and of my squeaky sounding scream, I rolled up my sleeves ready to fearlessly jump in the water after the fool. The fish, however, was shrewdly camouflaged and blended in perfectly with the other fish.
I had to give up the revenge, but the memory of the distressing experience kept me alert throughout the entire day! I also never came close to the tanks again and asked a laughing employee if eels can jump too. He didn't understand me, so he never answered. I live in mystery...
Margarita Antonova
Car, moped, and bike horns
This picture is showing the signs around the East Normal China University. Contrary to your first thoughts of no trumpet playing, it means that no car, moped, or bike horns are allowed to be used on campus. In China, you can't walk down a street without hearing someone honking their horn the first twenty seconds. Horns in the U.S. are usually used when people become angry at some other driver. Horns in China are used to alert other cars and people that you are coming through or to move over a little so another car can squeeze in. If there are three lanes on an expressway, that usually means that four cars can squeeze across. Horns are used very well to alert other drivers you are passing them on the right with minimal space so the car doesn't suddenly move over into you. After riding in many taxis and watching the streets of China, I have an entirely different perspective on how horns can be used efficiently. You will not ride in a taxi in China without the driver using their horn atleast a couple times.
Bryce Foster
How's the Weather?
It's smoggy. Not foggy, no, smoggy. And I can hardly bear to breath when I begin to think about what I am inhaling. Before I came here, I heard about how bad the pollution was and I imagined there would be a day or two when it was hazy. However, every day we've been here has been smoggy. I have not see blue sky in seven days. You can feel the grime on your skin after being out on the Bund all day and you can taste the acid in your mouth if the window is down on your taxi ride home. I cannot imagine how bad the air will be in Beijing if the rumors that pollution is worse there than in Shanghai are true.
I can understand why pollution consistently seems to be a headline for articles focusing on China's challenges as it continues to develop and urbanize. We are learning about the negative health effects - the high rates of lung disease and asthma here. I want to go work out in the gym, run on the track, or play soccer with the Chinese kids, but I'm afraid to breath the air. I need to start looking for a mask to wear when we get to Beijing. I hear they make masks in different colors and some even have designs printed on them. My friends at school made fun of me for my Sharper Image Ionic Breeze, however, now I'm wishing I had invested in the portable version. It's a mini Ionic Breeze on a string around your neck. Not a bad idea, Sharper Image.
Christina Dixon
Tipping in China...
Coming from the United States, it is natural for us to tip at restaurants. It is standard to tip an extra 20-25% for the services of a waitor or waitress. It provides extra incentive for them to be timely and courteous. There is never a second thought about whether to tip or not. It is simply the decision of how much to tip based on the individual's performance.
This is not the case in China. Not only is tipping not standard, it is not accepted at almost all establishments. I would typically consider this to be a problem. Without tipping, what is the incentive to do a good job? How does the waitor or waitress measure their performance? Though I completely agree witht the idea of tipping and its utilization, the concept is very interesting. I can understand why some countries don't believe it to be a necessary part of the compensation system. Apparently in China, their culture feels that one's wages should be enough incentive to do a good job. I wonder if its simply in their nature to do their best.
To date, I have not seen any problems arising from the lack of tipping. I have had nothing but superb service as far as I know; then again, I don't speak the language, so they could be saying something disrespectful and I wouldn't even know it. It seems as though compensation methods are not as much of an issue here in China as they are in the States. I feel that in the US, no tipping would typically lead to poor service. It would be interesting to implement tipping here in China to see how services would change.
Yours truly,
Thomas Hubka
The Space Module
While shopping on the Bund, I saw the "wonderful" Oriental Pearl in the distance. For those without the extensive knowledge of myself, the Oriental Pearl is one of the world's largest TV and radio towers. Because it seems to be the talk of Shanghai, Christina and I decided to visit. Step one: communicate to the taxi driver that we wanted to go to the Pearl (we were on the wrong side of the river). The driver did not understand the term "Pearl," but he did understand our hand motions towards the extremely large tower.
Christina and I wanted to fully experience the Pearl, and decided to purchase the "space module" ticket (the name alone practically sells the ticket), which took us up 350 meters. We saw the glass elevator shoot up the Pearl, and couldn't wait to ride in it.
By the time we reached the elevator, we had been in line for at least 2 hours. Don't worry, it seemed like seconds. I promise I enjoyed the numerous sneaky Chinese snapping pictures of us on their cell phones (I guess they've never seen an American?). To our dismay, the elevator we rode in was not glass. We must've gotten the VIP treatment. Our elevator had barely reflective mirrors and about 50 Chinese people.
When we finally arrived at the top, the view was indeed incredible. It was not nearly as crowded as below, and we even got to snap a few pictures ourselves. My only caveat was the pollution, which made it difficult to see in the distance. Despite the pollution, it was neat to see the city of Shanghai from above. Overall, I'd say the trip was a success.
Kristen Krouchick
The cost of tall buildings
Along with a few students in the group, I visited the Shanghai Urban Planning Museum yesterday. This museum is unique in its location- on prime real estate in People's Park and in its size and prominence. The building is large and as ornately designed on its outside as the absurd structures it documents. The history lessons within it focused on official pronouncements and public ceremonies, concentrating on the Shanghai that's arisen since 1990 to the exclusion of older areas. It cited 3 apartment buildings (out of the tens of thousands in the city) as an example of the eco-friendly lifestyle planners are creating for residents. But that's no matter; what the museum displayed was the scale and ambition of the Shanghai region.
Shanghai's planners are bragging about recent projects such as the 101 story building going up in Pudong, the "9 Cities" initiative that will add millions of people to Shanghai's suburbs, the 22 mile bridge across the South China Sea to the city's new deep- sea port (which we visited today), its new F1 racetrack, the world's largest and the replacement of "900000 substandard low-rise houses" with high rise developments. However, I feel that these impressive engineering feats ignore the mistakes American cities made with similar massive projects.
Though Shanghai lacks a single "power broker" like New York did with Robert Moses, history has not vindicated large- scale civil projects that destroyed houses and fragmented neighborhoods in America. Instead, old buildings that would be worth millions today if preserved and renovated were bulldozed to create slabs of freeway to accomodate demand for auto traffic. Just outside our University's front gate, the main elevated loop around Shanghai looms 30 feet above. Crossing the road underneath is an undertaking, as residents have to dodge the cars, buses, and bicycles of at least 10 lanes of traffic. New neighborhoods are disconcerting to walk around, as apartment complexes often have 10-20 high rises bunched together without a grocery store or shopping area for blocks.
Though I admire Shanghai's skyline- I often feel like a dog sticking my head out the window as we cross town in a taxi- I feel like its development has gone awry in many places. Walking around Pudong (an area that was farmland 15 years ago and is now a city with 2 million people the size of Paris) and newly developed areas like Hongqiao (a 'Science and Technology Research Park' a few miles from our University), they lack the friendliness and bustle of older neighborhoods. Large roads to cross, few stores and venders, and huge distances are the consequence of installing high rise superblocks. The irony is that the most expensive real estate in town is on The Bund (which looks like London or Vienna along the river front) with its colonial era banks and in Xintiandi (which is a restored section of Shanghai's historic Chinese Old Town). There's not much low- rise architecture left; areas spared the bulldozer are now very evident in gazes down from the elevated highway. Shanghai's planners are very detail oriented (they confidently proclaim which of the 9 cities will be the cultural capital of its region, which city will be known for its tourism, etc), but they altogether ignore the private initiative and organic development that accompany great cities. Perhaps they are trying to emulate Hong Kong (which is short on space), even though Shanghai has room to grow. Shanghai's skyline is legendary, but perhaps we should remember what it sacrificed for its glitz.
-Taylor Woods
City of the Future?
I've gotten enough opportunity to explore and research the city of Shanghai to make some observations on the place we'll be calling home for another 5 days. As indicated by the pictures of bullfrog tanks and bad menu translations, students in the group often adopt a "we're in China, we'll eat Chinese food" mentality. While this approach has yielded some of the best food I've eaten, I believe that we're ignoring how multicultural Shanghai is. The city was not even Chinese for more than 100 years; between 1839 and 1949, what we know as Shanghai was owned wholly by foreign countries such as France, Britain, and the U.S.A. Shanghai became populated by Chinese immigrants attracted by the opportunities given by these foreign countries. While Chinese rightly condemn the imperialistic nature of colonial Shanghai, I find a search for "authentic" cuisine difficult to justify when Shanghai has been an international city for all of China's modern history. When the city was blocked from foreign influence during Communist rule, it did not allow private enterprise and its cuisine consisted of whatever the government would allow.
Shanghai has shed its imperial past and is now a fully multicultural city. Signs of outside influence are everywhere in Shanghai, from the U.S. firms building its skyscrapers, to the Indian, Korean, American, Japanese, German, etc. restaurants lining its streets, to the multinational corporations setting up in Pudong, to the entire "Gubei" area by and for Taiwanese entrepreurs. While a few upscale restaurants serve "authentic" Shanghai food and the city's older citizens still speak a Shanghai- only dialect, it's easy to tell that internationally popular Cantonese food and the official Mandarin language have taken over here. Statistics indicate that foreign companies inject billions into Shanghai and foreigners in Shanghai are very prevalent, perhaps in areas far from East China Normal University. According to the classifieds section, I could join a "international basketball league", send my kids to the "Shanghai American School," dine at the enormous amount of "North American" restaurants throughout the city, read the 3 English language entertainment magazines every week to find out where the nightlife is, and not know how to speak Chinese at all. Shanghai is a Chinese city; the faces I see on the street certainly attest to that; however, Shanghai has always been an international city and limiting ourselves to what we define as Chinese culture is limiting in such a dynamic place.
-Taylor Woods
Mickey Ds: An American Staple
Yesterday a group of us went shopping on Nanjing Rd. We had a busy morning of shopping, and we decided that we were getting a little hungry. We were walking down the road, scoping out our options when we suddenly caught sight of those classic golden arches, and it was as if a beacon of light surrounded them! Yes, we said, McDonalds is what we want!
Now, one might assume that McDonalds has a pretty standard set up anywhere you go. But this McDonalds was one of the largest I had ever seen! First of all, outside of the restaurant an employee operated a little drink/ice cream stand so that people could get a refreshment without ever leaving the street! Then, when we got inside the restaurant, there were endless amounts of tables! Each room opened up to another room with even more tables. We also observed that the employees were dressed in FULL McDonalds apparel. We are used to seeing a uniform shirt with black pants and a hat. Here in Shanghai, not only was there a shirt and hat, but all the employees wore black jeans with the gold arches stitched into the back pockets! This McDonalds had everything except a "Play-Place" for kids!
On another note, ordering was a little tricky (per usual) because the restaurant did not have the Extra Value Meals from which Americans typically order. There was less selection and the burgers seemed to be smaller than in the U.S. We think we ordered Big Macs, but we really just pointed to a burger on a poster!
In the end, we left very satisfied and full from a good old American cheeseburger!
~Amanda Kane
May 5, 2007
Windows Too Shanghai!
Allow me to give you a glimpse at Shanghai’s hip-hop scene through Windows Too!
Windows Too is located in an area of Shanghai where the elite come to play western style. The club is located above the Portman Ritz-Carlton, California Pizza Kitchen, Hagen-Daz, Gucci, and Paul & Shark. We paid a cover charge of 50 yuan (about $7) to enter and received a free drink. The club is amazing. There is a large open terrace with tables for friends to congregate. You then enter from the terrace into the bar area where you can find a d.j., pool table, flat screen televisions on the wall, and several booths.
Our first stop was the bar to cash in on those free drinks. Their cocktail list mirrored that of bars back in the states and their beer list was domestic and import. As we walked to the bar, I noticed that the only music I was hearing was hip-hop. The dance floor was empty when we first arrived. The d.j., from Trinidad, informed me that the party doesn’t start until after 12:00 a.m.
Around 10:30 p.m. some people ventured to the dance floor. Even though the music (hip-hop) playing was circa 1990s, the people seemed to really be enjoying it as if it were the newest thing. This group also seemed to now many hip-hop dance moves and styles, but they were doing them to the wrong songs. Although I giggled at their attempts to snap dance (dance movement that originated in Atlanta Georgia around 2004) to Arrested Development’s Mr. Wendall (hit hip-hop song from the early 1990s), I felt proud that people from the other side of the world was interested in a culture of which I was a product. I also noticed another oddity; guys dancing with other guys. Now, most people familiar with hip-hop culture know there is an underlying homophobic attitude. While it is culturally acceptable for females to dance or grind with one another, it is unthinkable to see two men grinding with one another. The shocker to me was that this group of men did not appear to be gay. I later saw them dancing with females that seemed to be their girlfriends in a large group. I and two other girls began to dance attracted the attention of this group of men. They tried to show us what I believe was Chinese martial art dancing, similar to Brazilian fight dancing. Honestly, I grew very tired of this type of dancing because it involved fist flying at my face. One of the other girls was doing what resembled salsa with another guy that stomped for every beat. I wouldn’t call this bad dancing because they were actually on beat and had rhythm; it was just different.
I felt sorry for the guys that came to the club with us. While the girls did not intimidate the Chinese men, Chinese girls seemed bashful and scared to dance with the guys. Most of the girls danced together with friends. It was rare to see couples really dancing together. When the dance floor finally got packed around 12:00 a.m., most of the people dancing were in groups with the same sex. This perplexed me because the hip-hop culture is very sexual. It made me wonder how the two (hip-hop and traditional Chinese) conflicted? I hope to find more clubs in China to compare this experience and I’ll be sure to let you guys know!
-Cami Morrison
You Can Call Me Yao Ming
After getting past our first few days of pollution-enduced-asthma, a group of us headed to the local East China Normal University track to work off all those heaping portions of rice.
Ok, mental image: Think hordes of people all over the track. Think soccer games, think basketball games. Think groups of people walking backwards in their work clothes, in their heels. Think men smoking cigarettes on the field. Now, I'm not sure what everyone else's expectations for asian exercise were but I definitely did not see this.
Our first test: could we run around the track a few times and still be able to breathe? We did and we could. Because of all the pollution we didn't know if we would have trouble exercising but surprisingly, it wasn't too bad.
Second test: would the local Chinese boys let Kristen and I play basketball with them? After a few rounds of misunderstandings, we finally jumped in to a game (who could turn us down anyway?) At first, like any regular guys, they refused to pass to us. After all, girls can't play sports right? Well that was probably their mindset at first. That is, until they saw that we could really ball. After Kristen scored a million baskets and I totally blocked this one guy (and probably permanently damaged his reputation) they realized that maybe their initial thoughts were wrong.
What was funniest about the game was the crowd that we drew. We blogged earlier about the crowd on the Bund that followed us and took pictures of/with us. This was similar. One man circled around the game snapping pictures left and right. Kristen and my "nice shot!" comments were mimicked by those on the sidelines.
At some point this week, I'm sure we'll go back to ball again. The other day we learned how to say "nice shot" in Chinese so we can use that during our next game.
Third test: teach the local basketballers how to high five.
Caroline Davis
Language Barrier
My greatest concern of travelling to China was conquering the language barrier. With no prior mandarin Chinese lessons, I was worried that I would be unable to get around and enjoy this country like it was meant to be enjoyed. However, we have found that we have been able to manage quite well. Despite getting by, there is a major barrier that seems to be quite hard to overcome, even for the inhabitants of this country.
It is hard to do many things like properly ordering the right food or getting to the right place in a taxi. Upon arrival, our class has taken a week of survival chinese learning things such as asking for food, directions, etc. Though the courses were quite informational, the utilization of the language posed to be much more difficult than we imagined. We have discovered that mandarin Chinese places much of its focus on tones which can skew the meaning of the word. Any given letters can have several meanings based on the type of tone you assign the word. Additionally, each province or city uses different dialects which causes a whole new problem. Our teacher, since she wasn't born here in Shanghai, explained that she doesn't fully understand the dialect here. So how are we supposed to attempt to speak here? This language has been extremely difficult to learn.
After each class, we have all tested our newly gained knowledge hoping to come one step closer to breaking the massive language barrier. Most of us find that it hasn't worked very well. Asking something as simply as a bottle of water, "Shui," has been relatively unsuccessful. We have typically resorted to pointing at pictures or items to get what we want. This has been the most successful method to date. Over these upcoming weeks, I hope to learn as much of the language as possible and apply it when I can. Either way, it is good to know that anyone, no matter what their Chinese language back round is, can manage to get around here in China.
Yours truly,
Thomas Hubka
Shopping on Nanjing Road
After our Wal Mart adventure today, we went shopping on Nanjing Road. After haggling for a while, we actually went in to some legitimate stores. We found a "Chopstick Shop" and a jade store with really beautiful jewelry. I think it's surprising how comfortable we feel in a city where we really don't understand the language. We're able to maneuver the streets and argue with vendors and, most surprisingly, travel on the subway. On our way home from Nanjing Road today we immediately recognized our line and our stop and we even avoided being cut in line when buying our tickets. I think understanding a bit about how things works makes us feel really safe. Yesterday I walked to the supermarket alone and shopped by myself in the store and on the street (I bought 8 bracelets for 55 yuan- about $6. I thought it was a steal and at the same time, I made the woman's day); when I left I couldn't believe that I felt so comfortable wondering around Shanghai alone and especially that I could buy things and actually understand how much I was paying for them. So far people have been so receptive as opposed to frustrated, for the most part, and it really makes Shanghai such an enjoyable city.
-Katie Simpson
Arts and Crafts on the Nanjing Road
Today a group of us were doing a bit of shopping on Nanjing road and were stopped by a nice group of Chinese girls who spoke English. They told us that they were art students at a university in Shanghai and were making use of the May holiday to exhibit some of their pieces. We followed them to the fifth floor of a very modern office building and into one of the conference rooms. There we found all sorts of beautiful Chinese art on all sizes of scrolls. The girls showed us around, explaining the meaning of the various pieces, and then began offering to sell some of them. I finally decided to buy a painting of yin and yang horses, two horses running together and never seperating representing boyfriend and girlfriend. I left feeling pretty satisfied having only paid 260 yuan for what I thought was hand-made art. Then my illusionment faded when I was walking down the street a few moments later and had another group of girls tell me that they were art students displaying there work, and then a few moments later another group, and so on and so on. However, regardless of whether it was a scam or not, our group felt pretty satisfied with our purchases. Also, as Taylor pointed out, if you did happen to be an art student looking to sell your wares in Shanghai, where better to go if not the Nanjing road?
-Alex Weber
Chinese Exotic Fruit
So we took a trip to a Wal-Mart in Shanghai and decided to test our limits somewhat and dive into some of the local fruit items. Here is a picture of the collection we made it back with, and I am happy to say most of them were delicious, perhaps better than any fruit in the states, but others, as expected, were not so good and took some warming up to.
This guy was ok, not too much flavor, but plenty of little black seeds to crunch on.
These, along with the pineapple and mango were by far my favorite. They are kind of squishy and have one pit per small section, but are incredibly sweet with a slight tang, just as Prof. Smitka had described to us. After eating all four in quick succession, they are now on my favorite fruit list. Unfortunately, I am going to have to enjoy them while I am here as Prof. Smitka warned us they are not sold anywhere in the U.S.
These tiny bananas offered more in novelty value than they did in exotic taste, being very similar to their larger cousins back in the states. Although they did seem a bit sweeter.
Overall, the group consensus was good. The pineapple, Taiwanese mango, and small purple guys were everyone's favorite, but they all offered unique tastes, some I have never experienced before. So I say kudos to China for having such a fresh and diverse selection of fruits, and I look forward to some future taste testing once we travel a little further into China's interior.
Sincerely, Ryan MacPhee
I've Been Had Once Again
Today, a large group of us returned to the Bund, a large shopping district along the river in Shanghi and once again my money was stolen by crafty Chinese salesmen selling knockoff or low-end brandname retail.
On a previous trip to the Bund we were dragged up into a low ceiling shop filled will gucci bags and polo shirts. My goal was to come out with a couple polo shirts to delay doing a wash just a little bit longer. I did come away with two shirts but also probably paid a good deal too much for knockoff polo shirts. Haggling with a little Chinese salesman was exciting but also exhausting. I was only able to bring him down to 140 yuan from 200 (paying about 17 dollars a piece) and came away with a sense of having overpaid. Professor Pirkle today was able to get them down to 100 yuan on a polo shirt the last time I checked on him, and may have gotten further. I merely blamed the outcome that day on inexperience and vowed to get revenge next time.
Today I went with the goal of finding a pair of Nikes and soon found some that fit my hearts desire. I told them my size but that quickly became an issue. Apparently a size 10.5 is hard to come by in China. The salesman quickly called up one of his buddy's to see if he had a pair my size and I found myself dragged through a maze of tiny allies finally arriving at a tiny shop full of merchandise including a pair of Nikes just my size and from there the bidding war began. The salesman began at 500 yuan and I at 150 (probably much too high). Eventually he came down to 220 after about 15 minutes of haggling but I would not budge past 200. Victory was mine after beginning to walkaway at which he immediately conceded. And so I followed him back through the maze of allies(without him I would never escape) but once again with a sense that I could have gotten him to go lower, a feeling that was confirmed when another man on the street advertised shoes for 200 yuan, whether or not they were pair I bought who knows. I don't think I will return to haggle some more, but I discovered that the Chinese are probably the shrewdest businessmen in all the world. One of our speakers had told us the Chinese will wear you out with negotiations and these shop owners did just that.
Yours In China,
Matt Danner
Trip to Wal-Mart!
Wow! I do not think I have ever been more excited to step foot in an American institution! Wal-Mart in China, though it did appeal very heavily to Chinese consumers, was a breath of fresh air.
There were signs that were translated from Chinese characters into familiar English words. I could scan the aisles and know exactly what I might find. I thought the comparisons with the American Wal-Mart were very interesting. At least in Lexington, Wal-Mart does not have a prepared food section. If it did, it would most likely not contain fried dumplings, seaweed, or eel.
The styles of clothing and shoes were also drastically different, though the clothing bore western symbols and English words. As hard as I searched for a shirt of some sort containing Chinese symbols, my quest was a failure. I selected a powder blue polo shirt, since I am rapidly running out of clean clothes in my suitcase!
The food section of Wal-Mart in China was quite an experience. I found myself getting almost giddy when I saw an American brand or something with an English label. I had to contain myself when I saw contact solution, granola bars, and pineapple! There were fruits as far as the eye could see, and also fruits that my eye had never seen! I tried a piece of someone's fruit that looked more like a marshmallow to me. I definitely stocked up. I think I walked out of Wal-Mart after having spent 304 yuan (about $US 39.48). It certainly seemed like I spent more, and the weight of my bags made it feel that way!
I never appreciated Wal-Mart as much as I do now. In Lexington, I feel like I go there constantly and get bored stocking up on cereal and shampoo. Today was a different experience. My eyes were opened to the luxuries of this once-routine institution!
Sincerely,
Jessica Shaw
May 4, 2007
Bullfrog...It's what's for dinner
The fresh tanks in front of a restaurant we ate at, Alex was a big fan of the bullfrog.
Posted by: Ryan MacPhee
Neat Restaurant in the French Concession
Posted by: Ryan MacPhee
Hey What Happened?
People arguing in public places carries with it a certain amount of entertainment, otherwise people would not stop to look and see what’s going on. But when that argument is in English, at least I have the ability to collect some frame of reference or context as to what the conflict is about. I might spend a moment to hear both sides of the argument and to make a small internal judgment of my own before I head back on my way. However, when you replace the language with Chinese (which I hardly know), this moment of entertainment transforms into pure spectacle. I watched as a woman walked up to the counter with a bowl of soup she had recently purchased and began scolding the cook behind the glass. She spoke so fast that I probably would not have been able to understand her even if I was fluent in Chinese, and with all the pointing and arm-flailing, it looked like she was giving swim instructions rather than complaining about her food. He came back at her with an equal tempo and the two went back and forth for about a minute. In the aftermath, she got her money back and the cook was left with a bowl of soup with something obviously undesirable in it, and I was left confused. What was the argument about? Maybe she was a vegetarian and she found a slice of meat or maybe she was allergic to mushrooms and had made an adamant request, or maybe it was something worse, like a piece of shell or an insect. Who knows? Not able to come up with any judgments of my own, I decided to make my way to the line on the other side of the cafeteria, where they served rice.
Ryan MacPhee
Where's the Asian pride?
I think my biggest frustration with China (thus far) is the overwhelming influence of Western culture on Chinese culture. When I watch television, I see almost every Chinese woman with died/highlighted or permed hair. Granted, this sort of thing is common throughout the United States. For many Americans however, different hair colors and textures (wavy, curly, etc.) is indigenous to the many cultures represented in the States. You can’t always tell who has such traits naturally or as a result of chemical processing. I don’t know why but I find it disturbing that so many Chinese alter themselves in this way, which could never be achieved naturally. With the exception of mixing with another ethnicity, a Chinese person would never have hair other than straight and black.
In trying to keep an open mind, I ask myself, ‘I too have altered my hair – I have highlights and I’ve gotten it chemically straightened, why be angry with the Chinese?’ The chemical straightening at least was done so that I could manage my hair more easily (significantly so). But I feel that the highlighting was a choice made given my exposure to different hair types seen in the US. I guess I feel that in China, where the Chinese are the overwhelming majority, it’s disturbing that American culture can be so influential as to cause the majority to alter themselves. I’ve learned that many Asians also undergo plastic surgery to make their eyes appear less “Asian.” Where’s the Asian pride? I guess I feel that to alter one’s self in these ways is admitting to some sort of cultural inadequacy. Then again, why do I feel that all Chinese should look the same?
I see the pervasive nature of the Western world in television advertisements in China as well. American advertisements almost always feature models that appear sensual, playful, and seemingly perpetually smiling. The women toss their hair and men are pillars of handsome masculinity. I don’t know why, but it seems awkward to see the Chinese appear the same way in commercials, especially when majority of the Chinese I observe on the street or in passing appear expressionless. I saw this one commercial for Dove soap where a Chinese woman was laughing and smiling as she lathered soap on her shoulders. It seemed so foreign! When I think about it, non-Americans must look at our commercials and think we’re foolish for acting in this way... Nonetheless, this style of advertisement was developed in the States and is native to us. The woman in the Dove commercial was even wearing a button-up shirt with a pastel cardigan tied over her shoulders. I’m not sure, but I’d put money down that she was ever wearing pearls. I can’t believe people in Shanghai dress like the greater W&L population! (At least in their commercials…) It’s funny how the one thing I wanted the most from China was a traditional Chinese wardrobe. Believe it or not, I’ve only seen one person wearing such clothing since I’ve arrived here.
Alisha Laventure
'09
May 3, 2007
Fireworks
This video is about the popularity of Chinese fireworks. Every day you hear at some point fireworks being set off in the streets. They are set off for a celebration or an opening of a new store or for recreation. They are believed to ward off evil spirits and bad luck. This week is not the Chinese New Year, as mentioned in the video. This week is May Day Holiday where almost everyone is given a week off of work.
Thomas Hubka and I have already purchased our own fireworks. They are about a foot long each and are set off by twisted one end of them. You are supposed to hold them in your hand as something fires out the end of them. I will let you know if either one us loses our hands.
Bryce Foster
I Think I Ate Snake for Lunch...
I ate in the cafeteria on campus for lunch today. Other than the white rice, I have no idea what I ate but I think it may have been snake. Afterward we were checking out the tanks of live fish and animals on one side of the cafeteria and the scales on the snake looked strikingly similar to those on the unidentifiable meat I had consumed.
I bought a watch yesterday. I promise that I hadn’t been ushered into the backroom of a Shanghai alleyway when I bought it. When the sketchy Chinese man approached our group and showed us his worn-in laminated brochure of imitator North Face Jackets, designer bags, shoes and watches, I never expected the trip into his underground world to be so much like a game. I wouldn’t have followed him, but we had guys with us … football boys. They have been working out every morning since we’ve been here by running the nine flights of stairs in our dorm and I felt confident in their ability to protect our group should a problemo have arisen. On the walk down the narrow, damp hallway away from the busy street, I flinched as dirty water dripped on my face and I tried not to breathe as the smell of sewage mixed with garlic and cleaning fluid chemicals hit me like a wall and then swept over me. We were led into rooms chock-full of merchandise. I found a copy of a new Chanel watch and checked to see if it was ticking ha ha. The man’s first offer was 680 Yuan and I finally talked him down to 175 Yuan. Honestly, it was fun to negotiate the price with him.
This is what I have discovered about negotiations. You have to keep your standards high – and by this I mean your willingness to pay low. These people are good … they can read me like a book. When I am actually willing to pay more than I am offering, they won’t sell. It wasn’t until I decided that I didn’t want the watch unless I could get it for 175 that they (Yes, plural. By this point about three or four of the Chinese were focusing on the potential deal) really started coming down on the price. I had to be willing to walk away. They told me that their lowest price was 220 Yuan. I said, “I don’t want it, then.” And I really didn’t. I lingered before we started to leave, then as I was on my way out to the street they came chasing after me.
About 20 purchases later (between the six of us), we emerged from that alleyway high-fiving each other and headed across the street to McDonalds to experience the American standby across the world. I welcomed this after my meal earlier in the day.
To top off our day, we went out to a place called “Windows Too” and it was quite the experience. The music was all American (circa two years ago) and I think that the Chinese guys breaking it down on the dance floor had taken dance lessons from Carlton on The Fresh Prince of Bel Air.
We are having a blast over here and I look forward to learning more about China in the upcoming weeks!
Christina Dixon
Cop in a Box
Posted by: Ryan MacPhee
Conquering my germaphobia
I am probably one of the most timid people in the realm of germs on this entire planet. When it comes to public restrooms, everything is a routine for me. I manage not to touch anything, and I wash my hands vigorously with soap. I will not touch the faucet or the door knob after washing my hands, so I use a paper towel. It is quite a process! I also never eat food with my hands unless I am 100% positive they are clean. Instead, I will use a napkin or a fork (I have been known to eat french fries with a fork).
I mean, everyone has their little quirks, right!? I guess I take cleanliness to a slight extreme, though.
I knew it was coming, and I had braced myself for it--and sure enough, China is aiding me in surrendering this semi-obsession with germs.
First of all, I do not even WANT to know where the communal chop sticks have been before they enter my mouth in the dining halls on campus. It takes a lot of inner strength to combat the troubling thoughts circulating in my head about their whereabouts before they were placed, still very damp, in what appears to be a straw dispenser. The trays are also questionable. I have observed and had to reluctantly look away when I have seen grease or dirt that was not removed from my tray since the last diner used it for his or her meal. I mean, I really have no choice but to keep eating!
Napkins, I have discovered, are an absolutely RARITY in China. They are seldom available at restaurants and certainly are not present in dining halls or other cafeterias. I have been carrying around a package of kleenex in my bag, just in case! Speaking of paper, it is not even in the vocabulary of restrooms in this country. How this is possible, I have yet to figure out. Using a public restroom was a life-altering experience for me, but I feel stronger already. Trying to explain it would not come close to doing it justice, so I hope that a picture will be uploaded onto this blog that accurately captures its "uniqueness." Soap here is also rare, and hand sanitizer has quickly become my best friend.
Though these are all things that, in any other circumstance, would probably drive me insane, I have become almost numb to the fact that I am breaking pretty much all of my "germ rules" from America. China is making me stronger-- maybe my immune system too!
Sincerely,
Jessica Shaw